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Hunting => Raving?... Reviews => Topic started by: watchmaker on July 11, 2007, 11:00:17 AM

Title: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on July 11, 2007, 11:00:17 AM
Hi guys,
I have a bunch of lights and I had this idea of taking beam shots so the members can see how they compare with each other.
Stop me if you find the post boring.
cheers


LIGHTS FOR HUNTING



This post will try to show how different lights used for hunting compare with each other, and will clarify the difference between the lumen ratings used in Luxeon (LED) lights and incandescent lights.
In short, I will show (through pictures) how Luxeons lack definition when used at increased distances.

I have maintained for a long time that LED Luxeons don't have the range over the incandescent to really be helpful for general hunting. They are excellent lights to use inside the house; their beams are very clean, white and with substantial flood, and in the average house, that is all you need. However, when taken outside to the backyard, woods, or large structure and the distance to the target is 25 yards or more, they lack definition (as they lack the red spectrum of light), and their poor penetration of fog or rain makes them inefficient to clearly identify what you are seeing at that distance.
Moreover, when the subject being illuminated is an animal with a light-drinking fur (depth of texture), the blending effect of the LED's (against the background) will cause the observer to lose perspective.


LOW LIGHT FOR WALKING IN THE WOODS


Hunters that have used the Fenix LOP (1 AAA) consider this light ideal (except for the lack of a clip). Another favorite is the ARC AAA. These lights can be held in the mouth without any discomfort.

Fenix has put out a bigger light (1 AA) with two stages output, and the lower output will be also ideal for projecting a soft LED beam that will aid in walking the woods in the pre-dawn blackness when going toward your stand, (perhaps following a trail of cat-eyes) at this time, it is necessary not to pollute the area with more light than what is absolutely needed.
Some hunters that know the terrain well, prefer to use a red filter over the light, as is well known that deer and others animals cannot see red light.


THE BELT LIGHT

Those same hunters want to have a good light on their belt. Some prefer the two cell 123's lights like the Surefire 6P, G2, or C-2 for their better flood beam over the more tightly focused Streamlight Scorpion, TL-2 and Night Fighter II.
They look for a run time of one hour and an output of 65 lumens.
Some opt for more intense lights like the Surefire 9P or the C-3 with their 105 lumens and one hour run time.
The Streamlight TL-3 is a little too tightly focused for a belt light but it will do fine at the longer distances were the bigger lights shine.
In LED form (Luxeon V), the Surefire L-4 is a good contender due to the excellent flood light that it puts out at medium range, however it lacks the throw needed for more distance illumination.

The main thing is that the hunters want to avoid losing precious seconds by panning a light when in the woods. That is why the Surefires are preferred over the tightly focused others brands, because they have special reflectors that diffuse the light into a bigger flood pattern.


THE CAR LIGHT

Some hunters  wear a light holder in their belt (a plastic and leather ring). On exiting their cars, they slip in the ring one of the powerful rechargeable lights, most commonly the Magcharger (200 lumens) or the Ultra Stinger (295 lumens) and some even  a Borealis 1050 lumens mega light.

Those are ideal lights for search for wounded game, search and rescue of lost partner, signaling at long distances and using them as spotlights after the hunt. Being rechargeable, they are always used with a maximum run time (taken out of the charger at start of the day, a thing that you can not do with 123 batteries unless you are willing to dump half-used batteries at the start of every day of hunting.

Their large diameter (2 inches) reflectors put more light at a longer distance than any of the belt lights. Even though some of the belt lights approach 200 lumens, they do it with reduced run time and much reduced throw, due to their small diameter reflectors.
A Magcharger will put a spot of light at 150 yards, as will the Ultra Stinger and a Borealis has the capability of illuminating the whole road for 250 yards.


Lets start with the popular Surefire G-2 (or 6 P) at 65 lumens, the target is the 8 by 12 tool shed at 30 yards.
We are going to pit the Surefire G-2 65 lumens $35.00 against the Surefire Digital Lumamax L-4 (also 65 lumens and with a price tag of $160.00).

Surefire G-2 65 lumens

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/Gtwo65lumens.jpg)

Surefire L-4 Luxeon V, LED, 65 lumens

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/elefour65lumens.jpg)

And now we are going to pit the Surefire 6 P with the P-61 120 lumen lamp (20 minutes run time) against the best Luxeon LED thrower that I have (similar to the cree LED).
This is a Mc Gizmo PR T head with a TWOJ bin Luxeon doing 120 plus lumens.

Surefire Centurion C-2 (same as the 6P) with the P-61 lamp, 120 lumens.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/centuriontwoP-61120lumens.jpg)

And the PR T with TWOJ bin Luxeon, (LED) @ 120 lumens

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/TWOJbin120lumens.jpg)

And now we are going to show a belt light of 200 lumens (The Surefire Centurion III with the P-91 lamp, 200 lumens, 20 minutes run) and three cars' lights of 200 lumens plus and beyond.

Surefire Centurion C-III, 200 lumens P-91 lamp.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/Centurion3200lumensP-91.jpg)

And here the Magcharger also 200 lumens, with its bigger reflector and tighter focus will throw the light at 150 yards, while the Centurion III range will stop at 45 or 50 yards.

Magcharger 200 lumens (40,000 candlepowers)


(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/Magcharger200lu.jpg)


And here is the Ultra Stinger, the most powerful of the rechargeable from Streamlight with 295 lumens and 75,000 candlepower.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/USTINGER.jpg)

And now the BOREALIS, the light that has  the format of a 3 D (12 1/2 inches long) outputting 1050 lumens for 50 minutes.
This is similar to a two million candlepower spotlight

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/boREALIS1000plus.jpg)



As I have over 200 lights that I have used at one time or another in my hunting expeditions, I am well familiarized with distinct situations that call for different lights and method of using them.
I have encountered a new one lately, that calls for following a wounded wild boar at night with a powerful pistol like the S&W 500 or a 454 Casull  and also a powerful light in the order of a Surefire M-6 (500 lumens) or a Borealis 1050 lumens.
For myself, I cannot think of another pursuit that could be more dangerous to life and limb, although I have a lot of respect for the young athletes that have tried it, I consider it too "Extreme" for my good health.

Hope I can do some more talking to the members about my second hobby after knife collecting, which is of course hunting at night and light usage.

Respectfully
Watchmaker


Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on July 11, 2007, 11:02:57 AM
MORE LIGHTS FOR HUNTING


As a continuation of the first post and for whatever value it has, I am going to do some more shoot outs of a mix of popular Luxeon lights and incandescent ones.

The first order of things is to change the target area, to make it a little more interesting to my viewers.
Consequently I replaced the tool shed target with a deer and bear mount.
The deer head mounted on the tree is exactly 26 yards from my second story window from where the lights are shinning.
The bear head in the fence is only six more feet further away from the tree.

In the summer I have plenty of bushy cover in the area, but this time I had to be creative and cut and nailed to the tree and fence, some branches from a pine tree, not to hide the animals from view, just to provide a natural blending effect, like they were coming from a natural habitat.

The camera was placed twelve foot away from the tree (and eighteen feet from the bear) in a solid tripod, and the night  camera mode used (this mode shows in pictures the same light values that I am seeing with my own eyes).

The close proximity of the camera is for the viewer to see the target with clarity; if I were to place the camera 26 yards away the target will be awfully small.

Here it is the target area and  how it looks  in daylight.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/deerdaypicture.jpg)

And here are the contenders, but before I describe them, let me voice my opinion that some manufacturers of Luxeon lights label the output in lumens in quite a wild way.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/ledInc.jpg)


From left to right:  # 1 Fenix L1P at about  40 lumens, # 2 Nuwaii Q III  at 75 lumens (yes, sure!) # 3 Surefire L-4 Digital Lumamax at 65 lumens (this is a Luxeon V which is quite a flood light but with little throw).

# 4 Streamlight Task-Light 2 L (two Lithium 3 volts batteries, high and low output,
Cost is about $77.00) This is billed at a High Flux Luxeon III. With 75 lumens, which I think is about right.

# 5 is the Streamlight Pro Polymer 4 AA with a Luxeon I,  billed as 40 lumens (3,500 candlepower according to the advertising) which I think is quite wrong, as it appears to me to have about 70 lumens or more, this light has a bigger and deeper reflector than the others lights and the beam is concentrated more than the others. This is a great light for the price of about $40.00

# 6, this is a PR T Luxeon III head done for me by master modder McGizmo, it is set on a Surefire E2e body and I am using two rechargeable 123's with a voltage of 4.2 volts in it.
This light is my best Luxeon III light and up to two years ago it was  pretty HOT STUFF, today the cree LED's are approaching it in intensity, although it has not been overpower by any other Luxeon, yet.
My friends told me I have two of the Integrated Sphere Spectotometers just above my nose, those spheres are telling me that this light makes 120 to 130 "real" lumens.

# 7, this is A Surefire Centurion II in black with the P-60 lamp (65 lumens) this represents all the others Surefires lights that use this lamp, G-2, 6P. Z-2. etc.

# 8, this is another Surefire Centurion II, but in Hard anodized, it wears the HOLA lamp. The P-61 with the output of 120 lumens for 20 minutes.

# 9 this is a Surefire Centurion III (3 cells) this is usually sold with the P-90 lamp that makes 105 lumens for one hour, but in this case is set up with the P-91 lamp for 200 lumens for 20 minutes, as you will see in the picture later, the floodlight effect is great at 26 yards. All those P's lamps start to lose range at about 45 to 50 yards, this is because the reflectors are fabricated to produce a good flood so police officers can clear houses with them.
I took this particular light out of my Remington 742 rifle, where it sits in the special quick detach mount in a Picattiny rail.

# 10, this is the BEAR CUB, this light weights 13 oz and measures 9 inches long, it works with two Lithium Ion computer batteries, and produces 220 plus lumens for 90 minutes. Thanks to the big and deep 2 inch mirror-like reflector, this light concentrates the beam like a laser and has a throw of 120 to 150 yards.
So the 26 yards distance is like child play for the Bear Cub and the light is so intense at the target that they had to close their eyes!

# 11,  (last on the left lying in horizontal position next to the Bear Cub) this light is a KL-1 head Luxeon I of three years ago, it is set up in a Surefire Outdoorsman body and the lumens output is no more than 20, consequently I decided to strike it out from the competition, there is no room in my stable for weaklings and I will present it to my nephew on his birthday quite soon.

And now let's go to the pictures:

Fenix L1P  (40 lumens) Luxeon I

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/l1pfeni.jpg)

Nuwaii Q III (advertised at 75 lumens in a website, which I don't believe) Luxeon III.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/nuwaii.jpg)


Surefire L-4 Digital Lumamax (65 lumens) this is very flood light and the lumens spread in a very wide area, so it cannot  be expected to have a good throw at 26 yards. (Luxeon V ~which are 4 of the one watt together)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/l-4sure.jpg)


Streamlight Task Light 2 L about 75 lumens on high, works on two 123's batteries and has two levels of illumination.  High Flux Luxeon III. About $77.00

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/tasklight75.jpg)

Streamlight Poly Pro 4 AA Luxeon.  This light has a deep and bigger reflector, the Luxeon is  I, according to the manufacturer, is listed at 40 lumens, but to my eyes is doing about 75 lumens.
For the price of $40.00 this is a great light, and very battery friendly as it uses regulars AA.
I feed this light, rechargeable Nimhs AA of high current (Powerex 2700 mah) that hovers around 1.4 volts for weeks consequently it costs me nothing to operate it.


(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/4aaluxeon1.jpg)


Mc Gizmo PR T head on Surefire body, Luxeon III, TWOJ bin,
My best Luxeon light putting out 120 to 130 lumens. This is a collector's item and was state of the art, less than two years ago.
I have found nothing new that can approach its power, except the new cree 7090 that is getting close.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/prt120lu.jpg)

Surefire Centurion II in black with the P-60 lamp (65 lumens for one hour)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/c-265lu.jpg)



Surefire Centurion II in Hard anodized with the P-61 lamp (120 lumens for 20 minutes)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/c-2ha120lu.jpg)

Surefire Centurion III in hard anodized, with the P-91 lamp (200 lumens for 20 minutes) as you can see it is a great flood at 26 yards.


(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/c-3200lu.jpg)


BEAR CUB running for 90 minutes on two computer Lithium Ion batteries, driving a Xenon Magnum Star  bulb for 5 cells pretty hard at 8.4 volts  at 220 lumens (which make it a very white light) with a reach of 120 to 150 yards, even surpassing the Ultra Stinger.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/bearcu220luplus.jpg)

Best regards
Watchmaker


Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on July 11, 2007, 11:04:33 AM

THE SUREFIRE E2E
here is one more:
As the Surefire E2e is a very common light in the bow hunting and gun hunting scene and also for law enforcement, here it is.


The little MN03 lamp (60 lumens for 75 minutes) in the E2e is a big performer, I like myself this little light a lot, and I think it qualifies as a tactical light to be used at close to medium range if the need arose.
The MN02 lamp can be substituted for more run time, as it is 25 lumens for 2 1/2 hours, I actually prefer this lamp for hiking  in the trails and other general chores, but I will use the 60 lumens lamp for blood trailing a deer or bear.

Red, blue and infrared filters are available from Surefire and vendors such as Cabela's. The red is used to walk in the trails or follow the cat-eye tacks when you go toward the stand in the pre-dawn darkness and don't want to pollute the woods with light, and the blue to bring up the blood drops in the leaves.

The E2e is 4 1/2 inches long and weighs at 3 .1 oz., is available in hard anodized type  III and will not scratch easily, but it can be rough on your pocket liner.  Other finishes are available sometimes. A tear drop bezel model is done in nickel plated and the wine light in regular anodized with a wine burgundy color.

Here is a picture of a few of the versions of the E2e.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/E2eseries.jpg)



And here is the beam shot at the same distance as the others above (26 yards) and the camera placed at the same distance (12 feet to the Deer head and 18 to the Bear head).


(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/SurE2ebeam.jpg)

I can tell you that the light is fairly waterproof.  I don't have a pool to try it at a few feet, but it survived quite well in my 3  ½ gallon beer glass for several hours.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/etwoagua.jpg)

Kind regards,

Watchmaker
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: Hawks Feather on July 11, 2007, 11:22:26 AM
Watchmaker,

First off, welcome to Fins and Fur and I hope you enjoy it here.

Second, this is a FANTASTIC review of lights.  I have several, but keep wondering about what "this one" or "that one" would do.  After looking at this I have a pretty good idea what many will do.

Last, there is someone standing beside your barn.  I guess if you want to see what is REALLY out there, you need to use a bright light.

Jerry
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: awh on July 11, 2007, 11:45:47 AM
Cool write up. Welcome to FNF.
I'm like Jerry, I wondered about a few of them , now I know.Thanks for the post.


Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: KySongDog on July 11, 2007, 03:48:26 PM
Welcome to FnF, Watchmaker!

Very good comparison on lights.  Very informative.  What do you think about the Surefire G2?  It seems to do a good job for the price.

Semp
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on July 12, 2007, 08:42:45 AM
Thank you guys for the welcome and the appreciation of my post.

Semp,
I like the Surefire G-2 a lot, it will put out 65 lumens with enough side spill to make the light useable even for law enforcement, the plastic case will not show scratches like the anodizing metal do, and the P-60 lamp is the same that is used in their more expensive military lights.

Watchmaker
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: Hawks Feather on July 12, 2007, 10:23:37 AM
Watchmaker,

I am just wondering if you test lights for a business, have stock in battery companies, or just really like lights.

Jerry
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: FinsnFur on July 13, 2007, 08:49:37 PM
I believe he sells them Jerry, if I remember correctly :confused:

Correct me if I'm wrong Watchmaker.
It's not a problem either way, your free to post them. The only rule is you post something besides the ads to shag the spamming image.

Also...if your not selling these or any lights for that matter, with all due respect I'd like to move this topic to the Reviews forum which is where more members will go when in the market for something and researching.
Weclome to the board  :wink:
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on July 14, 2007, 08:20:45 AM
FinsnFur
Administrator.

Thank you for the welcome and the invitation to keep posting, I am sorry if I should have posted it on the review forum, you are welcome to move it.
This is a pet project of mine (as I have about 200 lights) to do beam shots so members can check how the popular lights compare with each other.
I don't sell the flashlights I posted in here, but I do built the rechargeable BOREALIS 1050 lumens flashlight, which is a specialized flashlight used mostly for law enforcement.

I had posted this LIGHTS FOR HUNTING in others forums that I contribute (mostly hunting and shooting forums) and it was taken so well by the members that I decided to share some more.

You are welcome to delete the thread if you think that it don't have any merit here.
I usually contribute with others threads like the one I will post about a binocular that I got recently.

Thank you very much for your invitation.
Best Regards
Watchmaker
a.k.a.
Black Bear

Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on July 14, 2007, 08:27:31 AM
THE STREAMLIGHT SCORPION

I like the little Scorpion a lot, it is powerful (at 6,500 candle powers) light (at 4.4 oz) not too long at 4.9 inches and with a great feel in the hand thanks to the rubber boot that covers the body.
This rubber boot can be especially beneficial in the winter when others lights left in the trunk are too cold to hold without gloves.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/scorp.jpg)



The switch is momentary and click on, exactly as I want my switches; it is located in the back of the light and protected by the rubber boot.
The momentary works well, the click is in my case too difficult to operate with my big thumb and I have to click it with my index finger.
But it rarely that I use the click as this light can be used as a "tactical" light and the momentary mode is preferred when using it with a gun. (You don't want to drop the light "on" and that it will illuminate you or your partner, that is the reason to use the momentary).

The light uses two 123's batteries and run a xenon bulb for one hour, this xenon bulb is quite small, (a spare is located in the bulb holder inside the head) I will hate to have to change it in less than normal conditions, for starters you have to pry a cover from the bulb holder to access the spare, you will have a few small parts in your hands and you will need calm conditions and plenty of light to do the job properly.

For those situations I really prefer the big bulbs with reflector included of the Surefires' or even the smaller but easy to handle bulb of the E2e's.

Why I consider this so important? Well, the bulb is rated for 5 hours of life, which is extremely short.

I say I like this light, but it is really not rational because we have much better designs, for a tactical light. The little Scorpion will roll out on a table that is not perfectly flat, for lack of an anti-roll bezel. Surefires are much better in this department.

The beam can be adjusted by rotating the head (the filament of the bulb will go lower or higher inside the reflector), in reality I have the light set to maximum throw that will not show any artifacts and I don't twist the head at all because the quality of the beam will be spoiled by artifacts and black spots.
This light is good for throw considering the small reflector and the quality of the beam when set at near maximum throw is good, a nice round circle, (due to the short filament).

The lens is polycarbonate, I would like to see it changed to Pyrex, but that is my personal feelings that this light should deserve a better lens.
I bought mine two years ago from Cabela's and it cost me $38.00; I think that the price is right for a quality made American product.
The bulbs run about $6.00 each and I also consider them in price, they are so bright because they are overdriven (hence their short life of 5 hours).

I have seen a holster for the light made out of Cordura Nylon, but I haven't tried it and I don't know if is any issues in removing the light quickly, the rubber boot cause me trouble when removing the light from tight pockets (read Jean's) but is okay when the pocket is from s dress pants.
I also have seen filters made for this light in red, blue and yellow for those that would like to penetrate the deer's woods with a minimum of light pollution.

As always the beam shot are coming from 26 yards away and my camera tripod is in the same position, 12 feet from the deer and 18 from the bear.
I have also included as way of comparison the beam shot with the P-60 lamp out of a Surefire Centurion C-2 (read it also Surefire 6P, Z-2, G-2 D-2 etc).

SCORPION'S BEAM

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/scorpionsbeam.jpg)

P-60 LAMP FROM a Surefire Centurion II

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/c-265lu.jpg)

You will notice that the beam of the Scorpion  is more concentrated than the P-60 lamp, making the target  clearer at this distance, for tactical situations at short range the P-60 lamp is better for the extra flood, it will be easier to clear a room with a Surefire without the need to pan the light to cover it all.

Cheers,
Black Bear
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: FinsnFur on July 14, 2007, 11:09:30 AM
I think you mis understood me watchmaker.
Your post certainly has merit so there no consideration in deleting it. And I'm aware of the lights you sell from me administrating another hunting site, but I'm fine with it.  :wink:

There is no charge to advertise here if your a participating member.

With that said, if your not selling these lights I'm afraid the thread will get buried in this forum with Big Game hunting. And  the Review section of the board might be best.

Either way, I am not reprimanding you in any way, and I already feel like I've ruined your thread here. I would have PM'ed you but you cant reply anyway until you reach 25 posts.

Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: Hawks Feather on July 14, 2007, 01:51:01 PM
Watchmaker,

I have the Scorpion and I really like it, but then again I am not using it in the tactical arena.  I actually have two of them and have one on top of the gun safe in case it would be needed and the other one I take whenever my wife and I go for walks and it is getting dark.  It is light weight to carry and works really well when you are wondering if someone is going to see you as you start across an intersection.  A quick blast at the driver helps them hit the brakes pretty quick.   :biggrin:

Jerry
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on July 14, 2007, 07:20:39 PM
FinsnFur.
Love to see the thread in the Review section.
Thank you very much
Respectfully
Watchmaker.
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on August 04, 2007, 06:39:43 AM
CREE 7090 XR-E LAMP

JET-I (AA) MK IIX FLASHLIGHT


I had the opportunity to test briefly this flashlight a few days ago; since I just got to handle it for a few hours I will not call it a review, but just a little trial.

The light was actually passing by, my friend Luis from Spain had ordered from me a Borealis 1050 lumens and a Bear Cub 220 lumens flashlights, he also wanted one of Emilions' workbench JET-BEAM I MK IIX little lights that have multiple functions and are billed with a 100 lumens maximum power in the 1 AA version and with the extended tube for two AA batteries at 150 lumens.
So I had one ordered from Emilions and it arrived quite quickly, from Hong Kong to New York in just five days!

Physically, it is the size of my Fenix L1P light, (about 40 lumens) and it is very similar in shape and weight.
For those not familiar with these lights I have here a picture of them side by side.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/jbandfen.jpg)

By adding the extension for another AA, it is claimed that the maximum output is 150 lumens. Now that is a serious lumens output that we are taking about, so my main interest was to see if really the little light was going to reach that high.
Unfortunately I didn't have available any other comparable light, the closest that I had seem was my friend Fenix L2D that claims 135 lumens, but he was out of state, so the light was unavailable to me.

I have in my stable of lights, one PR T head (Pelican Reflector Turbo) that McGizmo made for me with a TWOJ Lumileds Luxeon III, which is a real screamer, going into the 130 lumens when pushed hard by two of the rechargeable 123's at 3.7 volts each.
This head is in an E2e body and is my favorite of the Luxeons lights I own.

The comparison to the little reflector of the Jet Beam will be unfair, as the Pelican reflector is much bigger in diameter and deeper, concentrating the light in a much tighter and intense beam.
The smaller reflector of the Jet Beam will tend to disperse the light beam in a more open pattern which will compromise the throw.

But here is a picture of the two lights side by side, so you can see how they look like, and how the Jet Beam is with the added 1 battery extension tube.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/PRTandJB.jpg)

And here is a picture of the beam shot against the ceiling at a distance of 6 feet, the one on left is the Jet Beam I MK IIX

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/JBandPRGizmo.jpg)

And after that, I took pictures of the beams shots at my customary 26 yards against the Deer and Bear heads.
If the picture of the beam shot of the Jet Beam doesn't look too impressive for the 150 lumens figure, keep in mind the terrible advantage in concentration of light that the Pelican reflector provides for my PR T 130 lumens light.

Beam shot with the Jet Beam 150 lumens (2 batteries, maximum power)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/JetBeamIIX.jpg)

And here the beam shot with the McGizmo PR T head (130 lumens)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/Gizmo130lumens.jpg)

I can't close this account without telling my readers of the many features of the little Jet Beam light,
On the exterior the light is finished in hard anodized type III, the lens is Sapphire crystal and it comes with a set of extra switch covers, lanyard and a nice belt holster.

The circuit is 0.7V to 4.2V, after you click it on (Medium Brightness) soft touching the rubber switch will provide low brightness, maximum brightness and strobe, and one more touch will put the light in standby.

Waiting two seconds and clicking the light again will access the advanced mode with 10 levels of output, and five special functions including strobe SOS at 100 % and SOS at 5 % and others.

This seems to me, is the light to end all of the key chain lights and then some. As soon as my checkbook is recuperated from the ravages of uncle Sam, I am going to order one for myself.

I still think that for clearing a warehouse or a big yard, you need the longer distance reach of a good (in the 200 lumens bracket) incandescent light. When the factories start using the Cree 7090 with bigger reflectors, we will see the results, but I  myself  believe that the lack of the red spectrum in the Luxeons will always make them short distance lights and reduce the definition on the target; just look at the pictures that I have presented until now and see the performance of Luxeons even with the big reflectors of the Streamlight 4AA and the Task Light.

Kind regards
Watchmaker
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: Nelson on August 04, 2007, 08:00:10 AM
Watchmaker,
I've enjoyed reading your reviews.  I was wondering if you could comment on lights used for predator hunting at night?  Either gun mounted, head lights, or held by hand.  Thank you.

Nelson
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on August 06, 2007, 11:41:07 AM
Yes, for sure, I have scope and fore arm mounted lights as well as head lights, just give me a few days to take the pictures.
Cheers
Watchmaker
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: Hawks Feather on August 06, 2007, 12:06:52 PM
Nelson, thanks for asking; and Watchmaker, thanks for agreeing to do the post.

Jerry
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on August 14, 2007, 06:26:26 PM
Hi guys,
I did this piece for a hiking club I belong to. I thought that you guys could be interested. Just forgive me for the hiking flavor.

THE MOST POWERFUL FLASHLIGHTS
LIGHTS FOR TRUCK OR CAR


Hi guys,
Yes, I know that this has nothing to do with hiking, but most of us use car or truck transportation to get to the trail head and usually carry some form of a flashlight in the vehicle.
A powerful light can be a life saver in many instances, I well remember when driving up to the Adirondacks at 2 am in an empty 87 North at a point between exit 28 and 29 (North Hudson) some wild people in a truck tried to run us over into the shoulder of the road, my wife shinned a powerful light into their windshield and they desisted in the intent and actually braked hard and disappeared.
Maybe they though that only  police cars would have such a powerful light and that it was better to look for their kicks somewhere else; the case was that the light resolved the situation for us.

Then it was the time when we used it to illuminate the scene of and accident involving a deer and a poor woman in a compact car in a dark lonely side road, where blood and the insides of the deer were everywhere and the car was inoperable.

Calling by phone from New York City to a local in the Adirondacks to get our weather information I was told of a new ruse some bad guys were using to rob and hi jack cars in roads with poor traffic in the area.
The information came handy a few weeks later when in Boreas road near the junction with Tahawus road we were flagged by a guy in a truck with the head lights illuminating a dead dog in the middle of the road. at the time I was using a car I had bought from my neighbor the cop, it had a PA system and blue lights mounted in the vicinity of the radiator; we stopped short, illuminated the area with the two million candlepower of a Borealis flashlight and hit the blue lights and PA system telling them over the mike to stay were they where and to show their hands. The guy in the truck jumped inside and did a burning tire escape even running over the body of the dog, while his confederate in the bushes at the side of the road had just barely time to dive head first into the bed of the truck.

So I though that I will show the guys in the forums what a powerful light is since I have several of them with me.

HERE IS A PICTURE OF THE LIGHTS, FROM LEFT TO RIGHT:  Maglite 3 D,  Magcharger, Ultra Stinger, Surefire M-6 Guardian, and Borealis.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/contenderslig.jpg)

AND HERE A PICTURE OF THE BATTERY STICKS AND CARRIERS FROM LEFT: The 6 volts battery stick of the Magcharger, the skinny 6 volts  battery stick of the Ultra Stinger, the plastic carrier for the six 123's batteries of the Surefire M-6 and last the aluminum and Delryn 12 volts carrier of the Borealis 1050 lumens flashlight.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/batteriesncarriers.jpg)



The Maglite 3 D is the most popular light carried by almost everybody in a truck or car. The 12 ½ inches of length and the thirty one ounces of weight make also a good impact weapon for emergencies, moreover, is the affordability of the light that can be obtained almost anywhere for less than $20, and, by the way, it is a quality instrument with tight tolerances and proudly still made in the USA.
So the Maglite 3 D is going to be our first test and beam shot, the light is quite waterproof to a good extend, my neighbor's kids use one to collect coins from the bottom of the pool in a game they have.
The Maglite 3 D output 39 lumens and runs on three of the popular D size alkaline batteries; it will run for an hour before the output drops to 20 lumens due to the sag that alkaline batteries exhibit under load.

BEAM SHOT OF THE MAGLITE 3 D  (39 LUMENS)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/tresd.jpg)

MAG Instruments also produce a powerful rechargeable police light called the Magcharger, www.maglite.com  this light is used by many police departments in the states and abroad; this light is the size and shape of a regular Maglite 3 D but with 2 rings of steel where the contacts for the charger are.
This light will output 200 lumens (40,000 candlepower) and I think that the price is about $120.00 a well built quality light of 12 ½ inch and a weight of thirty one ounces, it works with a 6 volt system on a stick of Ni Cads batteries; the charger will charge the light in 12 hours and as the Ni Cad batteries sometimes acquire memory, it is necessary to discharge it full and recharge to erase the memory in the batteries after using it for a couple of weeks.

BEAM SHOT OF THE MAGCHARGER (200 LUMENS)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/magchagerr.jpg)

The Streamlight Ultra Stinger is the most powerful offering from Streamlight, a well known police flashlight provider, The Ultra Stinger will output 75,000 candlepower, lumens figure is 295 lumens, it also works with a 6 volt system of rechargeable Ni Cad batteries, formed in a stick, the light is very popular with many police agencies and also recharges in 12 hours.
Police station across America have racks of Ultra Stingers in chargers waiting for the night shift to arrive, the light is a lightweight at 12 inches and 15 ounces, I think that the price is around $130 in the street as some lights can be bought at discount from the web.
The address for Streamlight is www.streamlight.com there they have the whole line of Stingers and other police and emergency services lights.

BEAM SHOT OF THE ULTRA STINGER  (295 LUMENS)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/ultra.jpg)


Our SWAT teams and Special Forces use for entry and to blind suspects a powerful military type flashlight called the Surefire M-6 Guardian. This light works with those powerful 3 volts Lithium batteries that are sometimes used in cameras, the flashlight uses six of them disposables batteries to run the light at 500 lumens for 20 minutes; after the 20 minutes you have to dump the batteries and get another six fresh batteries in the carrier, which is of not importance when the agency pay for the batteries, but to us civilians, dumping $12.00 worth of batteries after a 20 minutes run can get to be expensive.
This light was until recently the most powerful in the world, and Surefire sells a good quantity of them despite the tag of $400 USD.
I used one for a while in my car because it fits my glove compartment, as the light is shorter and lighter than the ones we have been discussing so far.
At 8 inches 14 ounces it is quite compact, but it will make a poor strike weapon although the powerful beam of 500 lumens will blind men or animal.
If you want more information on this light the address of Surefire is www.surefire.com


BEAM SHOT OF THE SUREFIRE M-6  (500 LUMENS)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/suremesixli.jpg)

My red rechargeable Borealis flashlight at 1050 lumens (two million candlepower) is the king of all the powerful lights and the most powerful flashlight in the world at this time.
It is made on the "host" of 3D, so replacement shells are easy available and inexpensive and the owner can replace a shell that have been scratched or dented for a mere $20 if he wishes, and in only 10 minutes transfer the special parts, (some of us take pride in good looking equipment).
This light is seen deployment with some members of the border patrol to illuminate the frontier in their quest for illegal immigration. The light can throw a powerful beam for hundred of yards and in a pinch it can be used as headlights or a landing light.
Police officers are acquiring the Borealis to use the same way that they have been using the Maglite and Magcharger, the tremendous light output makes it ideal for accident sites and traffic stops.
It uses a 12 volt system of rechargeable high current NINH batteries in a beautifully made Rolls Royce carrier, the batteries don't have any problem with memory and the new type of batteries used in this light can be away from the charger for more than a month before it needs to be topped off, and the recharging time of the light is only 90 minutes.
The run time of this light is 50 continuous minutes; it is 12 ½ inches long and weights 28 ounces. In test ran by the maker, the light was tortured and even shot with a .22 rifle without stopping emitting light. (As a video shows in the web site).
The light sells for $320 shipped directly from the maker, which is www.BlackBearFlashlights.com


BEAM SHOT OF THE BOREALIS  (1050 LUMENS)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/borealisluz.jpg)


I thought you guys will be interested to see all these lights in action, and I pointed them to a point in the fence next to the tree with the beams and camera shooting from a 35 yards distance, this is the longest distance that I have in the back yard

Although you can not take them in your night hikes (because of the extra weight) any of them will make a good addition to your car or truck gear, who knows,  maybe they can really help you out  of a tight situation like they did for me.

Respectfully

Watchmaker


Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: FinsnFur on August 14, 2007, 09:27:43 PM
That is just too cool.
I think that last one is used for cleaning fence rows isnt it? Looks like quite the weed burner  :eyebrow:
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: Hawks Feather on August 14, 2007, 10:29:35 PM
Watchmaker,

Thanks for another great review.  I love reading these.

Jerry
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: iahntr on August 14, 2007, 11:24:14 PM
Very cool ! Thanks again.  :congrats:
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: Nelson on August 15, 2007, 04:53:20 AM
Great review!!!  This is more practical and useful than anything you see in comsumer reports.    :highclap:

Thanks,
Nelson
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on August 25, 2007, 01:50:29 PM
LIGHTS FOR COYOTE CALLING

Hi guys,
Perhaps it is a little presumptuous of me to initiate the post with that title; after all, my experience is limited and I don't have that many lights for night calling. But for whatever value it has, I am going to pass on the information of what I use.

Years ago, we (a group of friends and I) started cheap.  A two million candlepower spotlight was the illumination (of course, one guy was the "shiner" and the other the shooter).  The shooting light on top of the scope was the Optronic model.  We had the small size and the medium, but both sizes were cumbersome with the cables, and the battery that had to be worn on the belt, and then the batteries seemed to be always short on juice and they didn't last more than a season.  On the other hand, the batteries are relatively cheap at around $26.00.

Optronic scope light with Johnny Steward CH-1 Howler, Carlton's call and Princeton Tec Predator headlight.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/bullhorn.jpg)


The calling equipment was a locator howler (to locate the coyotes), and the mouth call imitating a wounded rabbit by any of the predator calling makers (we started with Burham Brothers).
What we found throughout a few seasons was that the red filter in the spotlight was not really needed. If we aimed the light high, we could use the fringe of light in the outer perimeter of the beam to spot eyes at long distance, and when the shiny eyes got close enough for a shot, it was easy to put the main beam on the target.

Dennis Kirk cassette calling machine, Night Owl 4x night vision binoculars and rechargeable BOREALIS 1050 lumens flashlight.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/denniskirkcaller.jpg)


With time and experience, we got tired of lugging around heavy spotlights and looked around for a more convenient source of illumination, turning our eyes toward the newer tactical lights with lots of lumens: the Surefire M-6 (500 lumens) and the M-4 (350 lumens) were as good as we needed.  Also we had the advantage to be able to hook one of them (the M-4) to the rifle via a one-inch ring and a Picatinny or Weaver base.
For shorter distances, we used the Surefire Centurion C-3 and the Cabela's XGP 12 volts series. The main illumination for search was provided by a prototype of what later was to become the rechargeable BOREALIS 1050 lumens (two million candlepower) flashlight, at 28 oz. and only 12 ½ inches- a more pleasant weight and bulk to carry around than the heavy spotlights.

Remington 742 with Picatinny rail Velcro secured and a Cabela's XPG 12 volts,  (180 lumens) Surefire M-4 (350 lumens) and Surefire Centurion III with P=91 lamp (200 lumens)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/74230-06lights.jpg)

To secure the lights to the forearm of a dedicated vermin rifle it is no trick at all.  Just screw the base into the wood or composite material. To avoid drilling on fine wood, and to allow me to use any rifle (even my deer rifle), I hold the Weaver or Picatinny rail to the forearm of the rifle with two-way sticky Velcro tape.  It only needs a rubber band to stabilize the system, and the advantage is that is quickly removable without leaving any marks on the wood.
To further protect the wood from the strong adhesive of the Velcro, I use a piece of camo tape as a base.

Even though it is not required to do a successful hunt, we use now night vision to spot the animal eyes.  The Night Owl 4x compact binocular in the picture has performed well for us with the aid of an infrared filter in one of my Bear Cub lights.

We have completely abandoned the big lights that mount on top of the scope, but if people starting in the sport want one of them, Optronics offers three models, and the Australian Light Force is making inroads in the American market as the top quality light to have.

For those that don't want to bother with attachments to rifle or scope, it is entirely possible to hold a powerful light under the rifle by grip alone.  The BOREALIS with the 1050 lumens will be ideal, and several people I know do it this way, but you need big hands.  A more comfortable hold can be obtained with a C size body such as the rechargeable POLAR BEAR 426 lumens which is an extraordinarily good thrower and even outperforms lights like the Ultra Stinger and the Surefire M-4 by a long margin.

All beam shots from 35 yards.

BEAM SHOT WITH THE OPTRONICS SCOPE LIGHT

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/optronics-1.jpg)

BEAMSHOT WITH THE SUREFIRE M-4

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/surefm4beam.jpg)

BEAMSHOT WITH THE CABELA'S XPG 12 VOLTS

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/xpgcabe-1.jpg)

BEAMSHOT WITH THE ULTRA STINGER

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/ultra.jpg)

BEAMSHOT WITH THE POLAR BEAR 426 LUMENS
Because it started to rain, I took this picture the following night, it was very humid and the air was loaded with moisture, that is why you see it reflected in the beam

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/polardos.jpg)

BEAMSHOT WITH THE BOREALIS 1050 lumens

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/boreashotbeam.jpg)


This is not supposed to be a treatise or anything; simply my humble opinion and how it works for me. I am sure that many members will have others setups that will work as well as mine does.
Respectfully,
Watchmaker
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: Nelson on August 27, 2007, 09:59:08 AM
Watchmaker,
Thanks for your reply.  I did get some useful info from your article.
Thanks,
Nelson
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on September 25, 2007, 10:17:17 AM
TWO, BLOOD TRACKING LIGHTS
BEAR CUB 220 LUMENS AND SUREFIRE M-4, 225 LUMENS

Hi guys,
I am the official tracker for our little group of seven bow hunters. Because of the small patch of private woods that we have for hunting, and to preserve the unpolluted area, all tracking is done only after dark when the hunt is over.
Our rules are that no more than two persons will retrieve the deer; this is to keep the woods as free of human odor as possible, not to spoil our chances for the next morning hunt.

I have had a lot of experience with blood tracking lights, since my father first taught me how to do it with the old gas Coleman lantern.
One thing that the old timers had right was the need for intense WHITE light. As time change, there was not need anymore to go back to the truck for the old lantern; the new crop of intense white light pioneered by the tactical lights used for SWAT and Special Forces can do the job of making that blood trail as clear as during the day.

At this point, a word about the blue lights now in use for this task, and is that in many situations they are completely useless, as I learned when I tested one of them by following a wounded bear in the Maine woods in late August. The black drop of blood blended so well with the dark green vegetation of the Maine woods, that it was impossible to track it using that light.
BLUE LIGHT


(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/bluefilter.jpg)

WHITE LIGHT

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/whitelight.jpg)


I am a flashaholic, a disease that is kept in check only by buying and using lights, as I own more than two hundred of them; I am well aware what is good and for what purpose. That is why I am telling my readers that for blood tracking you need a very intense white light of not less than 200 lumens.
That figure rules out LED lights, not only they don't make the grade in lumens output, they are poor penetrators in fog and are poor distance throwers.
Enter high output incandescent lights with good throw.
Not many of them out there, Surefire for sure was the pioneer with the M-4 and the M-6 lights; the M-6 with the 350 lumens lamp can run for 60 minutes, but it uses six of the expensive 123's batteries, costing  $12 per hour run. The M-4 with the 225 lumens lamp is what I have used for years with satisfaction, except for the cost of $8 per hour, as some tracking jobs sometimes took more than 60 minutes.

THE SUREFIRE M-4 AND THE RECHARGEABLE BEAR CUB

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/eme4nbcub.jpg)


The M-4 is 9 inches long and quite light in weight, it have a stippled reflector that diffuses the light into a flood, which in my opinion is more flood than it is needed, I would like to see this light marketed with a smooth reflector for more useable throw, as sometimes the wounded deer circle back toward the open fields, and to spot one lying dead in the middle of the field more throw is needed.
For more about the Surefire M-4 ($330) contact Surefire.

BEAMSHOTS FROM 26 YARDS, CAMERA AT 12 FEET FROM DEER

BEAMSHOT OF THE SUREFIRE M-4

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/emecuatro-1.jpg)


The rechargeable Bear Cub is made by Black Bear Flashlights; it uses two state of the art Lithium Ion rechargeable batteries for 90 minutes run time outputting 220 lumens. This light is made
using the "host" of a maglite 2 C, which means than after years of hard use when the light is scratched or dented, you can renew it just by buying a new "host" for about $14.00.
The light is also 9 inches long, it has a smooth reflector that concentrates the beam and shoots it a long way, no problem with this light in spotting a dead deer in the middle of the field. The light is sold with a Li Ion charger that will charge the batteries in 3 ½ hours, so it is no problem to have it ready for the next morning, fully charged. These batteries last for 1,000 recharges so you have 1500 hours of use before needing another set of batteries. Before the M-4 can run for 1500 hours it will have spend $12,000 in batteries!
Extra lightweight Lithium Ion rechargeable batteries cost $30 per pair, so carrying an extra pair in a pocket will give you another 90 minutes of white intense tracking light.
When these lights are not used for tracking they make a formidable tactical light for home defense, with the capability of momentarily blinding an opponent.
The Bear Cub is available from the maker for $130 shipped, for more about this light contact Black Bear Flashlights.

BEAMSHOT OF THE BEAR CUB


(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/osopeqeno.jpg)


Both of these lights will beat handily a 250,000 lumens spotlight; they are very convenient to carry in a pack or fanny-pack or even a large pocket. I use a red light to enter the woods without polluting them with light; I make a habit of always carrying my Bear Cub in my pack, ready for the most important chore of the hunting season, the retrieval of a wounded deer. I think that is our obligation to the game to make our best efforts to retrieve the deer we shoot, the use of the proper tool for tracking blood is imperative to aid in such efforts.

All the best
Watchmaker



Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on November 17, 2007, 11:50:01 PM
DEAL EXTREME VERSUS P-60 LAMP
FOR SUREFIRE TWO CELLS

A while ago I bought one of the Deal Extreme new Cree lamps advertised to fit the Surefires for two cells, like in the 6P, G-2, Z-2, C-2 etc.

Yesterday I installed it in a Surefire G-2 (the yellow one). The fit is not exactly perfect, as you can see in the picture, the lamp is a little longer than necessary and the bezel doesn't close all the way, like in the green G-2.
I guess I can fix the gap by instating an O ring, a trip to Home Depot to get one in necessary.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/twog2s.jpg)


Inside the house, at short range the output is considerable; I think that at the short distance inside the house I will prefer it over the P-60 lamp.
Outside, the P-60 lamp is giving me more range and more picture detail up to maybe 45 yards, at my usual range of 26 yards (where I test all my lights against the deer head) I will say that they both go head to head, as you may see in the pictures in the general illumination department, BUT the definition of the foliage to the right of the tree (at the height of the posted sign) is better with the P-60 incandescent lamp.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/dealP60.jpg)



Many G-2's gets to be mounted in carbines like the M-4 or M-16, I have people ask me if I will use the Deal Extreme lamp in them, (As they suppose to resist recoil better), well, no, I still prefer the P-60 lamp for the extended range and even better the P-61 lamp for the increase brightness and coverage with their 120 lumens.

G=2 WITH DEAL EXTREME, RANGE 26 YARDS, CAMERA 12 FEET.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/G-2DEALEXTREMELAMP.jpg)


G-2 WITH P-60 LAMP

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/p60lampg-2.jpg)



Any way it is not recoil that break filament lamps, but it is the vibration of many rounds while the filament is very hot, that explain why during the 1920's and to the 60's tigers were hunted from machans using regular 2 and 3 D flashlights clamped to the barrel in powerful rifles like the 470 Nitro Express, without any trouble with the bulbs. It seems that one or two shots, will not affect the filament, no matter how much the recoil is.
After all the filament is very lightweight and the inertia is just not there, because the lack of real weight.

All the best



Watchmaker

Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on November 17, 2007, 11:50:52 PM
DEAL XTREME LAMP, AGAIN

HI GUYS, THIS IS A COLLABORATION FROM
CHEVROFREAK

The problem with the Deal Extreme modules is that none of them use thermal regulation to reduce the drive current to the LED to control the temperature of the lamp. LED's do not like high heat. It reduces their efficiency, shortens their lives, and can cause the tint of the light output to change.

The Nitrolon body of the G2 acts as an insulator rather than a conductor, so that heat just stays inside of the lamp and cooks the LED. These modules are better suited for use in aluminum bodied flashlights like the 6P. They'll work alright for short bursts in the G2 (I'd say a max of 5 minutes) but extended use is not recommended outside of an emergency.

Surefire recently released a G2L and 6PL that uses their P60L LED module. It has a sensor under the LED to cut the current back when the LED gets hot, in order to prolong life. Well, the G2L has only been out for a few months now and Surefire has already made a change in it. They swapped the Nitrolon bezel out for an aluminum one in order to help dissipate heat.

Since they did this with a light that uses a thermally regulated module, it makes you wonder just how incredibly hot the non-thermally regulated modules actually get. Actually, I don't have to wonder since I tested a Deal Extreme 4068 module in a G2 and after just a few minutes it was too hot to hold in my hand, and the tint of the beam had shifted blue. It was perfectly fine in an aluminum bodied flashlight, though.

Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on November 19, 2007, 10:36:00 PM
THE BOREALIS FLASHLIGHT
1050 LUMENS

Three years ago the Borealis flashlight was conceived to be the most powerful military/police flashlight in the world. At 1050 lumens the beam of light is very similar to a two million candlepower spotlight, all that power cased in a 12 ½ inches long, 28 oz. light, that will run for 50 minutes before needing a recharge. Then the light uses a fast RC charger that does the job of recharging the high current batteries in 90 minutes.

Three years ago everybody was in awe of the Surefire M-6, a military/police light that makes 500 lumens for 20 minutes run time on six disposable 123's batteries, at a cost of almost $12 per twenty minutes run.
When the agency pays for the batteries, all is well, but for the civilians that wanted to have those mega lumens of light, there was no option. Black Bear Flashlights wanted to produce a rechargeable light that surpassed the M-6 and still be affordable for those with mortgages and families, and the result was the Borealis 1050 lumens flashlight.

The light was conceived to make use of a well known flashlight shell that is available anywhere, that way after years of hard use, the shell can be replaced for less than $20 USD and in ten minutes of the owner's time.
The super-bulb that is almost 3 ½ amps needs some very powerful batteries; those nine AA batteries of high current are housed inside a Rolls Royce battery carrier that has also a charging port on the negative side. Plugging the RC fast charger in this port for 90 minutes, will recharge the powerful AA Nimh batteries.

THE ROLLS ROYCE BATTERY CARRIER AND THE RC FAST CHARGER

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/bbcharger.jpg)



The Borealis also has some especial components to cope with the increased heat from the bulb. A ceramic switch/bulb holder, a solid aluminum reflector and a Pyrex lens, take care of the high temperature issue.


The BOREALIS is the highest intensity incandescent flashlight available in the market. Some HID's lights throw more lumens, but those are considered searchlights and not flashlights; as a HID can take as much as 30 seconds to start up, they are NOT instantaneous as the incandescent flashlights are.

HERE ARE SOME COMPARISON BEAM SHOTS AT 35 YARDS WITH THE MOST POWERFUL MILITARY/POLICE FLASHLIGHTS.
THE CONTENDERS FROM LEFT;
MAGLITE 3 D, MAGCHARGER, ULTRA STINGER, SUREFIRE M-6, AND BOREALIS

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/contenderslig.jpg)


MAGLITE 3 D (the most popular police flashlight)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/tresd.jpg)


MAGCHARGER

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/magchagerr.jpg)


ULTRA STINGER

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/ultra.jpg)


SUREFIRE M-6

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/suremesixli.jpg)


BOREALIS  RECHARGEABLE


(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/borealisluz.jpg)





Black Bear Flashlights spends several hours on each light working on fixing all the internal resistance issues and pro-gold all contacts and components for an increased conductivity. This results in their trademark of intense WHITE light as more voltage reaches the super-bulb. This bulb is not a flashlight bulb, but one made for powerful medical instruments.

THE BOREALIS ROYAL MODEL, WITH THE NEW LOW PROFILE STAINLESS STEEL CRENELLATED BEZEL AND QUICK DETACH SWIVEL.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/borealisroyalbox.jpg)


Police officers have adopted the Borealis for its tremendous throw and flood capabilities; hunters have abandoned their spotlights for the easy carrying of the Borealis, and civilians looking for a powerful light for the car or for home defense are flocking to the Borealis flashlight.
Respectfully

Watchmaker



Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on December 19, 2007, 08:56:49 AM
ULTRA FIRE FMR1 REBEL LUXEON
200 LUMENS
ONE CR 123 A BATTERY

I bought this light from Deal Extreme for $23.24 shipped. I was very curious to try one of the Rebel 200 lumen new Luxeons and I think this is the best way to try one inexpensively.

The light has a click on, click off switch and five modes of intensities.  The low mode is 30 lumens and is said to last for 24 hours.  Another is 100 lumens for six hours, and the 200 lumens mode is three hours; then you have a strobe mode and an SOS mode.

I used a new Battery Station 123 and in the high 200 mode it lasted for ½ an hour, and it gets hot very quick. I don't know if the poor run time is the fault of the battery that was under-charged, or if the light will perform the same with others 123's, but that is the results I got.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/ultrf.jpg)


Due to the small head, the flood effect is quite pronounced and the throw is poor for a 200 lumen light, but I was expecting it to be that way based on experience with other small headed keychain-type lights.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/rebelled.jpg)


Two hundred lumens in a two inch head of an incandescent will put a level of illumination that is tremendous in comparison to the small head of the Rebel 200 lumens. So we are in a time when we can no longer make an assessment based on the lumens figure, that is when the comparison pictures that I have been taken show the value, as the viewer can see for himself how the different lights with the same value in lumens output perform in real life.

If I consider the low price I like the little light in general, excepting the side switch that can be a little hard to find in a rush, as it is kind of recessed in the head of the light and difficult to find by feel alone. I will have preferred a tail switch such as I have in my Fenix L1D, but it is a tremendous price difference between the two lights, so all things considered I think that the Ultra fire is a great value, and I can put up with the side switch.

After trying to like the clip for a couple of weeks, I ended throwing it away, it is too flimsy and I will not trust it to keep the light in my pocket. The light is regular anodized, but had stood well the use in my pocket with keys and coins.

Here is my usual 26-yard beam shot against my deer head with the Ultra Fire 200 lumens

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/ultrafire200.jpg)


And here is a beam shot with the 220 lumens Bear Cub rechargeable that sport a two inch head and have a range of 150 yards.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/bearpeqenobeam.jpg)


All the best,
Watchmaker

Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on December 29, 2007, 10:47:26 PM
HAPPY NEW YEAR TO MY FRIENDS AND FORUM STAFF

WATCHMAKER
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on January 13, 2008, 10:17:09 AM
STREAMLIGHT TWIN TASK 2 L

It is easy for me to do an objective review of this light. I have been using a couple of them for two years, quite often (not exclusively because I own other lights also for everyday use).

The light has performed extremely well for me. The Twin Task uses for power two lithium 3 volts, 123 batteries, and it have two light sources, one xenon bulb of 72 lumens and three Nichia 5mm LED's of about 7 lumens each.
The LED mode will last for 28 hours (I have to take the word of the manufacturer for this, because I haven't done a run time that long). And the Xenon bulb's run time will last for 2 ½ hours.
The light is quite comfortable in the hand and similar to others 123's lights, measuring 1.34" wide and 5.43" long, and weighing at 3.37 oz.

Due to the micro-faceted reflector, the flood with the three LED's or the Xenon bulb is ample.  If you don't have to illuminate things at a distance the light is useful for chores inside the house or in the campsite or trail.
I have used it mostly with the three LED's and I have come to believe the run time of 28 hours claimed by the manufacturer because after two years of sporadic use the light is still going in the same battery set.

The switch is on top of the head, as this is not a "tactical" light I found the switch convenient, so does my wife, that have the same model but in Titanium finish.
The focus is adjustable, but even in the tight setting the light have a lot of flood. I have lend my second light to my hunting pal Frank, that left it on the three stand for a week, on returning the light it was just the same in finish having weathered the week without any mark or discoloration. So, I didn't have any problem dunking it for a couple of hours in a big glass of water to see if it really was waterproof, and yes, it was, so far at this depth.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/twintaskagua.jpg)

The beam shot at 26 yards using the xenon bulb doesn't look impressive at all, and that is because the reflector is designed for extreme flood, but that is okay, this light is mostly for using indoors, walking the dog or for hiking a trail at the most.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/twintks.jpg)


In this picture one of my Twin Task have a Velcro tape, this match with the Velcro in my baseball cap, and allow me to have my hands free for doing any chores while directing the illumination where I am looking.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/twintask.jpg)

The street price is about $32 USD and I think that it is quite reasonable for the quality of the product, based on my experience with it I can recommend it highly.

Best regards

Watchmaker

Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on January 13, 2008, 10:18:30 AM
THE BLACK BEAR 720 LUMENS
RECHARGEABLE FLASHLIGHT

The Black Bear 720 lumens flashlight is 10 inch long and weights 23 oz. It has all the same high quality state of the art components as its bigger sister the Borealis 1050 lumens.

The Black Bear is made on the "host" of the Maglite 2 D., which is one of the advantages of the Black Bear System, as when after hard use, if the light is scratched or dented, a new host can be replaced inexpensively available almost anywhere, and the transfer of parts takes only ten minutes of the owner's time.

The only difference between the Borealis and the Black Bear 720 (beside the shorter length) is in the shorter Rolls Royce battery carrier (for six batteries) and the reduced voltage super-bulbs.
The light has a 40 minutes run time and outputs an incredible 720 lumens, all this with rechargeable Nimh in the Rolls Royce battery carrier. This unit plugs into the charger for a 4 ½ hours charge.

THE BLACK BEAR 720,  ROLLS ROYCE BATTERY CARRIER AND CHARGER

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/BlackB720.jpg)


It is almost impossible to talk about the Black Bear 720 without mention its closest competition, the Surefire M-6.
The Surefire M-6 is well known in the tactical circles as the light used by SWAT teams and Special Forces, This light that cost close to $400, is 500 lumens for a run time of 20 minutes, running on six disposable 123 batteries, yes that is right! it uses six batteries, a value of $12 for a 20 minutes run time.

THE BB720 IS NOT MUCH LARGER THAN THE M-6, AND IT HAS A BETTER BATTERY CARRIER

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/BB720andEmesix.jpg)


Clearly, the Black Bear 720 lumens is a better value as the batteries are rechargeable, with a life of 1.000 recharges and the run time is of 40 minutes.
When the BB 720 needs new batteries after 666 hours of running, a new set costs only $30.
While the M-6 has only one choice in reflector finish, the light stippled, the BB720 has a choice of four reflector finish, to customize the light to your work. Wildlife officers doing deer census in the field will want the long throw capabilities of the Smooth (mirror finish) reflector, same as firefighters that need to punch a hole in the smoke. Others can use the Orange Peel for a little more flood, and the law enforcement officers will like the capabilities of illuminating an entire warehouse with the extra flood provided by the Light Stippled and Medium Stippled reflectors.



None of the other incandescent flashlights used for military/police work will get near the lumens output of the BB720, the Magcharger is 200 lumens and the most powerful of the Streamlights, the Ultra Stinger, is 295 lumens.
The shorter size of the Black Bear 720 makes it a natural to store in the car, inside the glove compartment, and it is not too heavy to be carried in a trench coat or overcoat pocket and the power in lumens compares to a car's headlights or to a one and a half million candlepower spotlight, really an amazing performance for a light of this size.

Surefire M-6

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/suremesixli.jpg)

Black Bear 720

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/720bbtres15.jpg)


Like its bigger sister the Borealis 1050 lumens, (12 ½ inches 28 oz.),  the BB720 is hand made one by one on a semi-custom basis, using state of the art components and lots of hand labor to reduce internal resistance to make the white light that is the trademark of the Black Bear Flashlights.

All the best
Watchmaker



Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on February 29, 2008, 03:56:07 AM
This light is billed as tactical, but with the 60 lumens setting for 10 hours, it is a great light for the woods.


THE FENIX T-1
TACTICAL LIGHT
Fenix has come out with a new LED tactical light. It runs on two 123 batteries and outputs in the high setting 225 lumens for 1.5 hours. In the low setting of sixty lumens it lasts, according to the instructions, 10 hours.
This new light uses a Cree Premium Q-5 7090 XR-E that is said to make 225 lumens.  It could very well be as it trounces every other LED light that I have in the stables, including my darling E2e modded with MacGizmo PR T head.

The light output is really impressive for an LED; it even has a very decent throw that is sufficient for tactical use inside and even outside.
I have tested it against other tactical lights like my Surefire Centurion III with P-91 lamp (200 lumens) and it really compares very well, to the point that I will carry from now on the new T-1 instead of the Centurion III.

My neighbor's door is 50 yards away and the light illuminates the target quite well. The package says that the range is 200 yards, which is an exaggeration, and I can't see any illumination at a target placed 200 yards away. My regular testing for long distance is a hydrant at 88 yards and a group of trees at 111 yards. This light will illuminate the hydrant, barely. I can see that the outline of the hydrant is there (The same with the Centurion III) but I can't make out any detail or see it sharply. If the target were a human at that distance, I will be not able to tell if it is a bad guy with a gun or a nun with a cell phone.

My incandescent rechargeable Bear Cub light at 220 lumens can illuminate the hydrant and the group of trees at 111 yards and go beyond, It is well known that incandescent provide longer range and better definition. Granted the Bear Cub has a bigger reflector and the light itself is longer at 9 inches.

THE BEAR CUB 220 LUMENS, THE FENIX 225 AND THE SUREFIRE CENTURION III WITH P-91, 200 LUMENS

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/t-1middle.jpg)


The T-1 has a massive head with a wall of 4.5 mm thickness, and the light is quite heavy in comparison with other tactical lights. But it is the price you pay for running an LED at 225 lumens, as all this mass of metal is needed to divert the heat away from the batteries.
You may know that the LED's unlikely incandescent that throw the heat forward as infrared, accumulate heat near the source of light, that is why they have to have a heavy heat sink, this heavy head act as one.
Otherwise the heat will reach the batteries and when a certain point is reached the internal protection that the 123's batteries have, will cut down the juice, and stop the light.
So, they advertise the light as been built like a tank, but now you know what is the real reason behind all that metal at the head.
The light is say to be waterproof and it passed my four hour test in a BIG glass filled with water. Now in winter is no way that I am going to test it further by doing some diving.
I love the switch; it is just have the right feel for the momentary action, so good that it can be strobe as fast as you want if that is your cup of tea for tactical encounters. It is permanent on by clicking it, and can be unscrewed to put it in safe mode for when you carry the light in luggage or back pack.

The tail cap of the switch has a hole for a lanyard that is included and you can stand the light on its tail cap on a flat surface for a candle mode. What you cannot do is use this light with the Roger-Surefire or cigar grip because the rubber button is recessed flat with the tail cap.
Inside the package I found a spare button and O rings, I applaud that move by Fenix, and it is appreciated as some of us use the lights hard.

The T-1 comes with a holster, which is okay, but it also have a sturdy clip that grasp my belt very well and lower the profile on your waist in comparison with the holster. The only thing about the clip is that it rubs on the body of the light when you want to access the low mode of 60 lumens. We will see how good is the hard anodized type III as the clip is rubbing against the light with a good pressure and I suspect will be soon marked by a line.
BEAM SHOT OF THE THREE LIGHTS ABOVE, 26 YARDS RANGE, CAMERA AT 12 FEET

FENIX T-1

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/fenixt-1.jpg)

SUREFIRE CENTURION III WITH P-91 LAMP

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/centu3.jpg)

BEAR CUB 220 LUMENS

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/bc-22090.jpg)

Anyway I think that the Fenix T-1 is one of the better lights that have hit the market lately, it is very rugged and is very well made, and well worth the price of 76 USD that I have paid for it.
Regards

Watchmaker







Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on March 27, 2008, 11:55:29 PM
THE FENIX P3D
FLASHLIGHT

I have purchased yet another light of the Fenix line. The new torch is the Fenix P3D, a multi-level light running on two 123 batteries.
The P3D I bought uses a premium (Q5) Cree 7090 XR-E LED. The light is digitally regulated and has six levels of illumination.

There are two modes of output that are selected by turning the bezel.  The general mode is: 12 lumens for 65 hours, by softly pressing the switch; the second mode will be 53 lumens for 13 hours; pressing again will put you in the 120 lumen mode for 4.8 hours; and again will access the SOS mode (also 120 lumens).

By turning the bezel you can access the turbo mode at 205 lumens, and pressing again softly on the switch will put you in the strobe mode of 205 lumens.

The light has a low battery indicator.  The indicator will strobe the light in low, very fast light; I had opportunity to test this when I put two inexpensive 123 batteries that I thought were both fully charged.
It seems that one of them was with a very low charge, even though it was a new purchase. I had learned to use only the best 123 batteries that I believe are the Surefire brand.
Putting the Surefire batteries in the P3D allowed the light to operate without a hitch.

The light is 4.5" long and 0.8 in diameter.  The anodizing is type III finish and the lens has an anti-reflective coating similar to what is put in eyeglasses.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/fxp3d.jpg)

As like the other models of Fenix lights, the P3D also can be used in candle mode, as the rubber button doesn't protrude like in other lights that are uses as tactical.

A word of advice; use the 205 lumen mode very sparingly. The light gets hot very quickly in this mode and the excessive heat can damage the Cree emitter if used for a long time. If you need a light that can be used without damaging the LED in the higher setting for a long run, you have to purchase the Fenix T-1 that has a massive heat sink and bulky head that will draw the heat away from the Cree.

As the LED's lack the infrared spectrum of light, the heat is concentrated near the head, instead of been thrown forward as the incandescent lights do.
The light comes with a handy holster.  This is one torch that I don't mind not having a clip, as the holster is very flat and comfortable to wear.

This light is so handy that it has replaced my Surefire E2e that was the light I used to wear for years when I went out of the house. I also have another light on my key chain, another Fenix product, the L1D, a one AA battery light with multiple levels.

Carrying now the two Fenixes, I will have light for a long time if I am involved in a situation that I need to use them.

The P3D can be used as a tactical light if the distance involved is short, like in an interior house situation. However, if the light were to be used to illuminate somebody in the back yard, the brightness of the 205 lumens at say, my usual distance of 26 yards, will be not be sufficient to blind a person as the tactical lights are supposed to do. I know because I tested it on myself at that distance, and the blinding effect was not present.

To illustrate the point I use another light that is also in the 220 lumens bracket, the Bear Cub incandescent, 220 lumens for 90 minutes.  If you look at the pictures you will notice how strong the concentrated white beam of the Bear Cub is in comparison to the flood light of the P3D.

Also notice to the right of the subject how the incandescent light reveals leaves that are not shown in the beam of the Fenix. This is the famous lack of definition that I often talk in my posts; it can be translated as lack of detail from the LED beam.

For that reason I think that the 26 yards to the fence is the maximum range of the little reflector of the P3D. Bigger reflectors like in the Fenix T-1 with the same Cree Q,5 can reach as far as 50 yards. A word of advice, don't try to make the little, svelte P3D do the job that is designed for the T-1, just confine the P3D for the house and other places with short range.

P3D beam from 26 yards,

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/fenix15feet.jpg)

Bear Cub beam from 26 yards

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/bc15feet.jpg)


Coming back to the P3D, it has a strobe effect in the 205 lumens setting; it will not do anything different to my eyes than the actual steady 205 lumens light can do. Must be all my disco dancing in the '70 had me accustomed to the strobe effect.

The little torch is good, that is why it is my new light over the E2e.  Placed in the holster or in your pants pocket, you hardly know that the light is there and a lot of cool features and power are just at your fingertips.
I recommend it highly.
Regards
Watchmaker
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on April 11, 2008, 07:03:40 PM
HUSKY 2D 3 WATT LED LIGHT

I was at Home Depot and I spied a new light in the flashlight section. The new torch is a HUSKY brand, which is a brand name of Home Depot. I have used some of their inexpensive lights; they are made in China and represent a good value in some models.

The new light uses two D batteries (that are included in the package) and the source of light is a three watt LED. The difference in this torch is that the switch activates three different levels of illumination.
The package lacks any instructions and doesn't even mention the output of the light or the run time. So I am guessing that the first mode (the first click) is a 12 lumens light, second click at 40 lumens and the last click about 80 lumens.

The idea of having three different levels is good, it will conserve battery juice when you just need a little light for illumination, and at the same time, the other two settings are there for more lumens when you need to reach farther or put out more intensity.
As this thread is all about comparisons, I decided to pit the new HUSKY against a Maglite 2D LED 3 watt that I bought a few months ago. I purchased the Maglite from Wal Mart for $24 USD, but I think that it was on sale at the time, still price wise the two lights. Compare.

The HUSKY is ½" shorter, otherwise they compare physically to each other and they weight the same, although the HUKY have a slightly smaller head.
The outside of the Husky is finished in a slightly duller anodizing than the Maglite; both lights look handsome on the outside.
In the inside the Husky shows the threads of the tail-cap, body and head very rough. Removing the head I found an adequate heat sink, although the mounting of the LED looks a little lousy. I wanted to take a look at the reflector and plastic lens, but it was not possible to remove the bezel despite my superhuman and my weight-lifter friend efforts - the bezel seems to have been super-glued in place.

The tail-cap sports a flimsy lanyard that I will not trust to hold the light for long, and looking inside at the switch, I found it very cheesy looking, more appropriate for a toy than for a flashlight. The little strip of metal where the battery makes contact with the switch, it doesn't look good either.

The Maglite 2D on the other hand, is a high quality product with butter smooth threads, a switch that will last forever and a lot of well thought-out features (cam action, self cleaning switch, etc).
The Maglite is an American product that should cost much more of what it does now. Old timers may recall that when they first show up in the 1980's the price tag was $60 USD and that they were selling like hot cakes, the engineering of the Maglite was at that time well above any of the existing lights, including the Kel-Lite.

In the picture you can see the Maglite 2D LED on left, the Husky light in the middle, and the red one on right is a Black Bear 720 lumens, (1 ½ million candlepower) a custom made light that shows how much illumination we can put into a Maglite "host" 2D, with a little ingenuity, and if the people are willing to pay the price of a custom product.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/husky.jpg)


Here are the beam shots for comparison, 35 yards to the fence.

HUSKY 3 watt

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/beamone.jpg)

MAGLITE 3 watt

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/beam2.jpg)

BLACK BEAR 720 LUMENS

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/beam3bb720.jpg)


My impression is that the Maglite has a much better beam, in color rendition and in intensity. Also, I can throw the beam of the Maglite much further than the Husky, even that both lights are 3 watt, the Maglite is better in quality of LED and power.
Granted - the Maglite has a 2" full reflector, while the Husky could be only 1 ¾ "  that could account for the better throw, but the Maglite definitely has a whiter beam and it is more intense.

All the best
Watchmaker








Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: FinsnFur on April 11, 2008, 07:28:52 PM
Your wife never has to wonder where to find you when she loses you at Lowes, does she?  :wink:
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: Bopeye on April 12, 2008, 11:37:55 AM
I've got a guy wanting me to go coonhunting with him. Started looking for lights so my fat butt doesn't get lost. Remember this thread. Thanks Watchmaker. This is some good stuff.
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on April 16, 2008, 09:21:34 PM
Bopeye.
This os a good coon hunting light


THE NITE LITE WIZARD II
HEAD LAMP
The Raccoon hunting light

I have been using this lamp for raccoon hunting on and off for two years, so it is well proven as it has maintained the charge in the battery very well and for the purpose of raccoon hunting with dogs in the south, it has delivered a satisfactory performance.

The light has a rheostat in the top of the head lamp, so you can vary the intensity of the beam, like low when walking in the woods to high when searching in the top of the trees or shooting.

The unit comes with the cap with the holder bracket installed and a leather cable guide in the back to route your cable to the battery that is usually carried on your belt, I recommend a sturdy belt and if possible the aid of suspenders to help with the weight of the battery. The suspenders really help a lot if you don't want to cinch your belt to the point of discomfort.

In the minimum setting the battery juice will last for five hours, just about right for a night of coon hunting, as after that you and the dogs will be deadly tired.
I have found the light good for tracking blood when bow hunting, the only real issue here is to have it available when needed as it is heavy and bulky and we tend to carry a smaller and lighter hand light in the back pack, like the rechargeable Bear Cub.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/wizardii.jpg)


The light can also be used as a hand held searchlight, as the battery plastic case has a mount for the bracket in the head. The cables are sturdy and have stood up well to snags in the briars/branches etc. and the switch that is in the bottom of the head is very well made and the action positive.
So far after this light still works like the first day, after two years the battery still hold a charge, which speak good of the quality of it, I have had others lamps running in the same kind of six volts batteries that have fizzled in a year time.

This is a good quality product from Nite-Lite, I can recommend it without reservation.
Best regards

Watchmaker




Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on July 20, 2008, 08:43:32 AM
Q-BEAM MAX MILLION II
TWO MILLION CANDLEPOWER
SPOTLIGHT

I very recently bought a new Q-Beam two million candlepower spotlight. I am a big user of spotlights, in my case I use them to give demonstration of the power of the Borealis 1050 lumens flashlight, in police reunions, night shots, and seminars.

When my eight month-old battery for my two million candlepower Optronics spotlight gave up the ghost, I had to get a new spotlight.

I spied the Q-Beam at Wal-Mart and I bought it on the spot. It is a large spotlight with a four-and-three-quarters inch reflector, and with some extra features not available in other spotlights.
For starters, it comes with two removable batteries. One battery could be on the light while the other is charging, a good feature. Unfortunately, in my case, one of the batteries was already dead and is not recharging. I will have to return the unit and get another, hoping for better luck.

However, bad batteries are nothing new in big spotlights. It seems that the Chinese haven't gotten the hang of making lead acid batteries last any decent amount of time. I know; I have the corpses of seven spotlights to prove it (some day I will get around to rounding them up and take a picture of them).

I can safely say that I have tried all of them, and I can tell you that a quality spotlight is not available in the USA, unless you buy one of the Australian's Night Force spotlights.  Australians, with their liberal night hunting laws, know a thing or two more about night hunting and lights that the average American hunter does.

For law enforcement the panorama is different.  With the advent of the Borealis 1050 lumens flashlight (12 ½" long, 28 oz) a spotlight in the cruiser is no longer needed.
After all, spotlight use for law enforcement is confined to operation from the car, which is why you don't see a trooper conducting a traffic stop with spotlight in hand or chasing down a suspect with one in tow.

Coming back to the Q-Beam Max Million II, it also has another feature that was not available before in any other spotlight; a double trigger that when touched high, can activate mechanically a spring that will push the smaller part of the two-part reflector/ bulb holder, forward. This causes the focus to change to a wider flood; interesting concept, but perhaps of dubious utility. I have seen it employed in flashlights before, but by the use of two filaments positioned in the bulb envelope at different heights.

Here is a picture of the Q-Beam together with the Borealis

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/qbeamspotnew.jpg)

Unfortunately the Achilles' heel of any spotlight is the quality of its batteries. In the normal use that I give them, they never last more than 6 to 8 months, which is why I am not looking to pay more than half a century note for one, with is just what the new Q-Beam cost me at Wal-Mart.

How does it compare with the Borealis 1050 lumens (two million candlepower)?
To answer that question, I move them to the backyard of my local church, where I have a solid wall of trees and a range of 35 yards (I try to avoid solid light-painted walls that produce too much reflection and confuse the camera).

Q-Beam Max II Spotlight

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/q-beamtwomill.jpg)

Borealis 1050 lumens flashlight

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/boreroja.jpg)


Black Bear 720 lumens flashlight

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/bb720be.jpg)



The new Spotlight did well in comparison, but it is more inside the range of the Black Bear 720 lumens (10 " long 23 oz) than of the more powerful Borealis.  Here are the pictures for you to judge; of course the Borealis and the BB 720 are  better law enforcement tools as the side spill is bigger and the intensity and the color are brighter. Of course, you need side spill to avoid panning a tight focus' light and losing precious seconds when clearing a room or warehouse.

For those that use the Q-Beam for varmint shooting (with a partner to hold the light of course) the light will do okay up to 300 yards.

For that use you can take advantage of the red filter (at shorter distance) and the other two filters, ( blue and amber), are completely useless for varmint shooting and for any other use I can imagine, as I can not see a blood tracker using such a big spotlight with the blue filter on it.

Respectfully,
Watchmaker
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on July 31, 2008, 11:45:33 AM
THE UTG BARREL MOUNT
                                                           
                                                         
                                                                               
Hi guys,                                                                       
For  those  wanting  a barrel mount for a flashlight or laser, I have had good
results with the UTG barrel mount.                                             
Initially  purchased  for  an  AK rifle, I found out that it can be mounted in
other rifle barrels, for example, it fits perfectly in a .22 rifle and also in
a Mini 14 I have.                                                             
                                                                               
It is a tri-rail mount with three Picattiny rails that will also accept Weaver
style  rings.  My  model is the #2 mount which have two slots; the UTG is also
available  with  five slots that will accommodate the red dots scopes that are
in the market.                                                                 
                                                                               
Picture of the UTG # 2   

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/utgtwo.jpg)                                                     
                                                                                ]   
                                                                               
Another view
                                                                 
                                                                               
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/utgone.jpg)   
                                                                               
         
                                                                       
The UTG fully loaded with two TACM III tactical lights (one with a red filter)
and a laser.
                                                                   
                                                                               
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/utg3.jpg)     

                                                                               
The UTG is sold by Cheaper than Dirt and I imagine others places that cater to
tactical rifles. Just look in their catalogue in the AK accessories page.     
                                                                               
Cheers                                                                         
                                                               
Watchmaker



Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: FinsnFur on July 31, 2008, 09:10:41 PM
Now I like that :eyebrow:
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: Hawks Feather on July 31, 2008, 10:29:51 PM
Jim,

Do you think he could make a model that would fit a Bud can?

Jerry
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: FinsnFur on August 01, 2008, 05:37:28 AM
 :laf: wouldnt be necessary. Your always aiming for the same spot when you pull up on that can. It's more of a routine or form :laf:
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: coyotehunter_1 on August 02, 2008, 08:51:21 AM
QuoteJim,
Do you think he could make a model that would fit a Bud can?


Bud light?  :laf:
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: Bopeye on August 02, 2008, 09:07:56 PM
Quote from: coyotehunter_1 on August 02, 2008, 08:51:21 AM
QuoteJim,
Do you think he could make a model that would fit a Bud can?


Bud light?  :laf:

OHHHH CHET!!!  :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :rolleye: :biggrin:
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on September 17, 2008, 09:27:31 AM
VERY INTERESTING ARTICLE BY JAMES MAURER
ON THE BRIGHTEST LIGHTS IN THE WORLD
THAT YOU CAN GET OVER THE COUNTER.

THEY ARE ALL THERE
THE TORCH, THE POLARION, THE BOREALIS,
THE SUNFORCE, ETC.

READ IT IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN LIGHTS

http://www.jamesmaurer.com/worlds-brightest-flashlight.asp

CHEERS


Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on October 19, 2008, 01:09:35 PM
REMOTE SWITCHES
WITH PRESSURE PAD

Hi guys,
I have been using remote switches in my tactical lights that are mounted in rifles,  shotguns, and bows, for quite a few years now.
The most effective of them are the ones with a direct connection to the solder pad that touch the battery (no spring), like the ones in the TACM III tactical lights.
The reason that they are more effective is that they don't rob the system of any voltage (in the way of internal resistance) as do the ones with heavy springs.

Internal resistance is the name of the game, some of them, for example the TAC STAR pressure switch, can really make a bright lamp like the P-60, looks dim and murky, due to too much internal resistance in the design of the tail cap.

THE TAC STAR REMOTE SWITCH

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/weaponlight.jpg)

A good one that I have used for years in mounting lights on my friends' bows and rifles, is the G&P tail cap with remote.  Its design is quite good and the internal resistance is low, but it is not designed for pump shotguns as the cord is just straight and not curly.

THE G&P REMOTE SWITCH

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/gp_tapeswitch.jpg)

A very good one that I discovered recently is the Aimshot curly cord remote, the spring is copper and quite light and it seems to have very low internal resistance.
I discovered the Aimshot in Cheaper Than Dirt catalogue and at a very good price ($14.97) and it has become my favorite.
I just used one in a Pelican M-6 tactical light and mounted it using a UTG Tri rail mount in an AK rifle, it does the job well.

THE AIMSHOT REMOTE SWITCH

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/aimshotremote.jpg)

Cheers

Watchmaker



Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: iahntr on October 19, 2008, 08:04:06 PM
Thanks for the info.
I never thought about different switches having different
resistance and causing the light to be dimmer.
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on October 28, 2008, 02:48:45 PM
THE 200 LUMENS BATTLE

There are now a number of aftermarket lamps for the popular series of Surefire lights.
They will fit the Surefires series: 6P, C, Z, D, G, and maybe others.

I just received a new one that claims 290 lumens and is called a Cree R-2 (it's supposed to be even more powerful than the Cree Q-5).
I decided to do a shoot out with an assortment of lights that I have in the 200 plus lumens class. That way the members can see how they perform against each other.

Run time was not measured for lack of time and because I am running short on 123's batteries. The bigger lights, namely the Surefire M-4 with the MN60 lamp (225 lumens for 60 minutes on four 123's disposable batteries) and the Bear Cub from Black Bear Flashlights (220 lumens for 90 minutes on rechargeable Li Ion batteries) are big throwers and with them you can see clearly objects 120 and 150 yards away.

On the other hand the small reflectors of the Surefires G-2, Centurion 2 and Fenix T-1 are dispersing all those lumens close by, creating a great flood.
Those pocket lights will be great to use as tactical lights by law enforcement personnel, and especially good at clearing houses, while the Surefire M-4 and the Bear Cub will make great lights for car, truck and the open spaces.

The literature of the Fenix states that it's good for 200 yards, it will probably make a reflective target like a stop sign glow at that distance, but it would hardly  illuminate any other object. My perception from trials I made, is that this light as well as the others LED's can't be count to illuminate (poorly) objects beyond 60/70 yards.


In any case, a lamp upgrade if you own a Surefire pocket light, is a good idea as any of them are more powerful than the stock incandescent lamp of 65 lumens or the stock LED lamp of 80 lumens.


The lights as they appear in the picture are, from left to right:


Surefire M-4 MN60 lamp 225 lumens for 1 hour (running on four 123's batteries)
Bear Cub 220 lumens for 90 minutes, rechargeable
Surefire G-2 in yellow. It is 65 lumens for one hour with the stock P-60 lamp
Surefire G-2 in black, Lumen Factory lamp incandescent of 160 lumens
Surefire G-2 in green, Cree Q-5 by Deal Xtreme, 200 lumens
Surefire Centurion 2 in Jungle Camo, 290 lumens (claimed) with the Cree R-2 lamp
Fenix T-1, 225 lumens using a Cree Q-5 lamp

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/S5300167200lumensplus.jpg)


And now the pictures, target is 20 yards away, watch also the amount of side spill as well as the throw.

SUREFIRE M-4 DESVASTATOR 225 LUMENS

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/desvastatorm-4225.jpg)

BEAR CUB RECHARGEABLE 220 LUMENS

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/bc220one.jpg)

SUREFIRE G-2 YELLOW 65 LUMENS

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/g-265lumens.jpg)

SUREFIRE G-2 BLACK LUMENS FACTORY 160 LUMENS LAMP

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/g2black160lum.jpg)

SUREFIRE G-2 GREEN, DEAL XTREME LAMP CREE Q-5 200 LUMENS

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/g2greencreede.jpg)

SUREFIRE CENTURION 2, CREE R-2  290 LUMENS (CLAIMED)

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/surc-2cjcreer-2290.jpg)

FENIX T-1 CREE Q-5  225 LUMENS

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/fenixt1q5225.jpg)



One word of caution with high intensity LED lights: most are not thermally regulated and they will suffer from their own heat if used for an extended period. They will get very hot and the tint will change. Short use of 5 minutes or less is recommended, especially in lights like the G-2 that has a plastic body and head.

All metal flashlights like the Surefire 6P are better at dissipating the heat, and in them a few more minutes of constant use can be achieved before the heat will damage the module.
The big heavy head of the Fenix acts as a heat sink, and this light can manage to run much longer without the heat affecting the module.

Besides, the Fenix has a second setting that will run the light at 60 lumens for 10 hours.
So, if you already have a Surefire you want to upgrade, the aftermarkets lamps are great.
If you need a new light look at the Fenix line.

If you need a truck, open spaces light, the Bear Cub is a great value as it is rechargeable and very bright as well as a 150 yards thrower.

Cheers


Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: Todd Rahm on October 28, 2008, 03:40:14 PM
Nice informative post WM. I'd like to put a set up on my rifle as a back up incase my spotting light goes out at night, or for quick calling trips where I don't take in the big spotter.

Right now I have to SureFires, one for sure is the 6P the other I'm not sure but looks similiar to your camo one, except mine is black. I'll check into that switch and the Fenix line.  :biggrin:
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on December 03, 2008, 08:17:00 PM
Todd,
The jungle camo is a Centurion II Surefire, it has a clip, consequently it will not fit a 1" ring.

But the 6P is ideal for mounting in your rifle with any Weaver style 1" ring and a Weaver base or Picattiny rail.
If you put the new Cree R-2 aftermarket lamp in there and a Aimshot remote switch, you will be all set for coyotes at short distance.

Cheers
Watchmaker
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on December 24, 2008, 10:58:53 AM
Merry Christmas to all
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on January 15, 2009, 01:35:54 PM
TERRALUX LIGHTSTAR 220
FLASHLIGHT

For the last two months, I have been using one of the Terralux Lightstar 220 lumens flashlights, which runs on two AA batteries.
This light has two settings on the click-tail cap; the first setting clicks on the light and emits 220 lumens for 1.5 hours.
The second setting of 100 lumens for 6 hours is accessed by softly pressing the rubber button switch.

The LED is a Cree RXE Q-4 and is controlled by a microprocessor for a constant light output.  When battery juice is running low, the LED will flicker to let you know that is time for new batteries.
The unit comes with two Energizer AA batteries, a lanyard and a soft nylon holster.  At an even six inches long, the light is quite portable and also features a clip to attach it to your belt or waistband.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/terralux.jpg)


It is very similar to the popular 3 watt 80 lumens Ray-O-Vac Sportsman Xtreme (but is slightly longer as the click tail cap needs more room for the mechanism), and the head is smaller with a small orange peel reflector.

Due to the small reflector the beam throws quite a flood despite the 220 lumens figure.  Small reflectors don't really have much throw no matter how many lumens you make the light puts out. However, it is quite adequate for most chores inside a house and practical, too, for walking the dog or a walk in the woods.

LIGHTSTAR AT 20 YARDS WITH THE 220 LUMENS

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/terra220.jpg)


LIGHTSTAR WITH THE 100 LUMENS SETTING

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/terra100.jpg)




The really nice thing about these lights are that they are very inexpensive to feed as they use common AA batteries. As I use rechargeable AA batteries in all my lights, it is even more inexpensive to use.
The dark green anodized body is quite resistant to scratches as the light is still like new even after a couple months of sharing my pocket with keys and coins.

Cost of the light varies depending where you buy it, but it is around $35 to $40 USD; your best bet is to Google it to see who has a special on it.
I like this light to the point of recommending it to anybody that is looking for a light with these characteristics.  The light is as good as the Ray-O-Vac Sportsman with the added power of the 220 lumen setting.
Cheers.
Watchmaker




Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: iahntr on January 25, 2009, 08:42:01 AM
Looks like a nice one too. Thanks for puttin up your reviews.
Sent ya a pm with a couple questions for ya.
Scott
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on February 17, 2009, 07:12:22 AM
WHEN A LUMEN IS NOT A LUMEN

A lumen is not a lumen when somebody intends to throw a big bunch of them out of a small reflector the size of a dime or nickel. At least it seems to be that way.
It used to be easy to tell the power of a light by the lumens figure, not anymore. You could be an experience user of lights, say a policeman that had used for years a 200 lumens Magchager and is well acquainted with its capabilities. Now he reads about this small light the size of a thumb that also outputs 200 lumens and is all excited to get the new marvel.
He does and is promptly disappointed because the small light seems to throw a good amount of light, but all close by, and is nothing that can compare with his duty Magcharger that can illuminate objects at 100 yards.

Besides emitters in the 200 lumens bracket can kill themselves with the heat that they produce when they are used in small lights with poor heat sinking. It is mostly a novelty thing and it should be used with caution. Some of them come in lights with multiple settings, and that is fine when the literature advice you to use the 200 lumens sparingly, and you follow that advice.

To illustrate the point, here are a couple of pictures of beam shots at 20 yards, you can clearly see the superiority of the Bear Cub (reflector size 2") over the Lightstar 220, (reflector the size of a dime)  even when both lights are rated at 220 lumens.

LIGHTSTAR 220 LUMENS AT 20 YARDS

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/terra220.jpg)

BEAR CUB 220 LUMENS AT 20 YARDS

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/bc220one.jpg)
   

Some manufacturers wishing to quote big numbers are now putting clusters of these small reflectors on duty size flashlights. Mind you these clusters that are from three to four are still all small reflectors with limited throw.
So, somebody putting a cluster of four reflectors in a big head can claim 800 lumens, but you know better now, knowing that those 200 lumens for each reflector are not really behaving like real lumens!

Unfortunately I don't have one of those lights to prove the point. But I can get my own cluster of lights in the 200 lumens bracket, and demonstrate by picture what can you expect.
I have here two of the Lightstar220 lumens, plus a Fenix P3D of 205 lumens and an Ultra Fire with Rebel emitter of 200 lumens, all of which together in a cluster will throw the figure of 845 lumens.
The opposite number is a Black Bear 720 lumens flashlight, a light that is 10" long and weights 24 oz. and uses a 2" reflector that can throw several hundred of yards with a strong white light.

HERE IS THE PICTURE OF THE CONTENDERS

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/clustervsonereflector.jpg)

The distance for both beam shots is in this case 35 yards to the target (The no trespassing sign tacked in the tree). The camera is 20 yards from the target.

CLUSTER OF REFLECTORS 845 LUMENS

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/clusterreflectors.jpg)


BLACK BEAR 720 LUMENS ONE REFLECTOR 2"

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/onereflector720.jpg)

Observe how the beam of the 720 lumens light travels beyond the range of the cluster lights, illuminating objects that the cluster lights are not capable of showing.
So, if you are in the market for a new light, this use of small reflectors in clusters to boost lumens figures is something you should be aware off.

Cheers

Watchmaker


Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: iahntr on February 18, 2009, 05:38:57 PM
Interesting. Thanks again.
They should have some sort of rating for distance.
Would candlepower be the closest rating?
Of coarse most flashlights don't have a candlepower rating.  :shrug: 
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on February 23, 2009, 10:59:42 PM
Many lights have both, lumens and candlepower.

Lumens are the total light emitted by the source.
Candlepower are the measure of intensity at the center spot

Candlepower favor BIG reflectors and is used mostly in spotlights as the numbers are impressive. (1 million  2 million etc)

Magcharger 40,000 candlepower, 200 lumens
Ultra Stinger, 75,000 candlepower, 295 lumens
Borealis, two million candlepower, 1050 lumens

Cheers
Watchmaker
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: Hawks Feather on February 26, 2009, 09:18:44 AM
Watchmaker,

Do you know anything about these?

http://www.all-battery.com/tenergypremiumledflashlight.aspx

My assumption is that that they are made by someone else and Tinerygy just puts their name on it.

Thanks,

Jerry
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on March 03, 2009, 11:50:00 AM
Jerry,
Most of the Chinese lights are junk, I have a few that didn't work out of the box. (tail cap and contact problems).
Some are good as is the Fenix line, Olight and perhaps others.

It is a chancy thing when you order a light if is going to please you, I have had problems also with customer service.

Except for the brands mentioned above, I stick with USA made for reliability and customer service.

Watchmaker
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on March 03, 2009, 11:51:06 AM
NEW BULB FOR THE BOREALIS FLASHLIGHT
750 LUMENS FOR 75 MINUTES

As you may know the Borealis 1050 lumens flashlight is the most powerful military/police flashlight in use today.
The Borealis will make 1050 lumens for 50 minutes on rechargeable batteries. Now a new bulb is available which will run the light for 75 minutes with a drop of only 300 lumens.

Lights in use by police today are the Magcharger, the Stingers, the SL 20 up to 200 lumens, the Ultra Stinger-295 lumens, the Pelican 7060-135 lumens, and the Fenix TK series up to 240 lumens.
Military forces use a variety of Surefires as weapon lights with 120 lumens and hand held like the Surefire M-4, 350 lumens and the Surefire M-6 at 500 lumens.

So, the above statement of the Borealis been the most powerful is not an exaggeration, many are been used daily by police and many are doing tour of duty in Afghanistan and Iraq.

What the new bulb does is extend the run time to 75 minutes without reducing drastically the output.
As no other duty flashlight with the same lumens is available, I decided to conduct a shoot out against a big two million candlepower spotlight, the one at hand was an almost new Brikmann Q beam Max million II (two million candlepower) with a reflector of five inches wide and a big bulb of 75 watt.
All this in competition to a bean sized 30 watt bulb and two inch reflector of the Borealis.

DAVID AND GOLIATH

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/davidvsgoliath.jpg)


FIVE INCH VERSUS TWO INCH

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/5inchesvs2.jpg)


This particular Borealis has a Light Stippled reflector, a reflector designed to give a good balance between flood and throw, but given the semi custom character of the Borealis three other reflectors are available, smooth for maximum throw, orange peel for just a little less throw but more flood (also called side spill) and a medium stippled reflector designed for a big flood but with the range limited to 100 yards.

As the night was bitterly cold I decided to take the pictures and shoot the beams right out of my second story kitchen window, with the short tripod legs resting in the kitchen sink.

The target is the white and blue cabana which is the second building in the picture after the fence.
The target is 74 yards from my window, with back trees as much as 85 yards (they are still visible with both lights).
Due to the big reflector in the spot light, the beam is concentrated in the center of the picture and illumination from the side spill is not as great as it is with the Borealis 750 lumens bulb.

Observe both pictures and you will see more area illuminated by the Borealis 750 lumens bulb, than is illuminated by the two million candlepower spotlight.
Still the intensity of both beams is similar at the center of the target area.

Q-BEAM MAX TWO MILLION

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/qbmaxmill2.jpg)

BOREALIS 750 LUMENS 75 MINUTES BULB

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/750lumenssmoothrefl.jpg)


In conclusion the new Borealis bulb of 750 lumens is worthy for those that will want a run time of 75 minutes. Even after loosing 300 lumens the Borealis still is the most powerful flashlight used by the police and the military.

The light can be ordered with the 1050 lumens bulb installed and the spare as the 750 lumens or vice-versa.  You can also order the reflector most appropriate for you work, the only light in the Industry that offers you a choice of four reflectors.

Cheers.
Watchmaker







Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: Hawks Feather on March 03, 2009, 04:44:40 PM
Watchmaker,

Thanks for the info.  I really had no idea where that light was made, but I really don't think I am interested in it any longer.   :biggrin:

Now, you need to quit posting those light tests because every time you do I get a bad case of the "I wants."

Jerry
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: FinsnFur on March 03, 2009, 07:17:18 PM
I wonder what the neighbors think when Watchmaker lights their roof up with those torches, for these pics.  :roflmao:
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on March 12, 2009, 12:20:33 PM
Quote from: FinsnFur on March 03, 2009, 07:17:18 PM
I wonder what the neighbors think when Watchmaker lights their roof up with those torches, for these pics.  :roflmao:

Fortunately my neighbor is a hunting pal of mine.

Cheers
Watchmaker
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: Hawks Feather on March 12, 2009, 09:44:42 PM
I had thought the same thing and decided that watchmaker must have friends on the police force.  Now I find out he is just friends with the neighbors.  What about the next three houses when you fire Big Momma up?   :biggrin:

Jerry
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: Jeb on September 06, 2009, 11:45:29 PM
No more light updates ?
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on December 25, 2009, 11:49:33 AM
Hi guys,
I am still around, just busy trying to make a living.

I wish everybody a MERRY CHRISTMAS AND A HAPPY NEW YEAR!
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on January 04, 2010, 09:51:06 PM
 obsolete
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: topdawg on January 04, 2010, 10:28:36 PM
whats the price range on the Borealis 1050 lumens flashlight.........this is the first time i think i have heard of them
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on January 06, 2010, 09:16:08 AM
Quote from: topdawg on January 04, 2010, 10:28:36 PM
whats the price range on the Borealis 1050 lumens flashlight.........this is the first time i think i have heard of them

The Borealis 1050 lumens Rolls Royce flashlight is superior to a two million candlepower spotlight with the 1050 lumens bulb and just about par with the Q-Bean two million spotlight with the 750 lumens bulb. With that bulb the run time extent to 75 minutes.

The Borealis cost $320 with charger and shipped Priority, Insured. You get a lot of quality components for that price, the quality of the Borealis is on par with Surefire top high lumens lights as the M-6.

For more information on the Borealis contact me at
jcharles11784(at)yahoo(dot)com


All my lights are hand made by me, no Chinese production line, here.

Cheers
Watchmaker
Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on January 06, 2010, 09:17:02 AM
THE BEAR CUB
SMALL LIGHT BIG PERFORMANCE

Not long ago to get magnum illumination out of a flashlight, I had to drop down the tube, six of the big D batteries on a Maglite 6 D size.
That the light weights three pounds one ounce and measures 19 ½ inches was just incidental to the use if I wanted to get a really good, powerful beam.

Later Surefire come up with small lights that could take two and three or four small but powerful 123’s camera batteries, some of those lights, come up and surpass the 181 lumens of the big Maglite 6 D.
I am thinking now of the specialty tactical light than Surefire have as the M-4 that uses four of the 123 batteries for 225 lumens for one hour run time. The M-4 was made famous by been used in the CSI Las Vegas series.
Incidentally the M-4 is not precisely inexpensive, costing $330 USD from Surefire or their dealers.

The only problem is that the little 3 volts batteries are quite expensive, and using four of them for one hour run time can cost you $8.00 for that hour.
And that is if you buy them at discount over the Internet, when purchased in the camera stores (such as Wal Mart) the little 3 volts batteries cost as much as $4 each.

So a light of the size of the Surefire M-4 (9 inches long) was highly desired if it could be made to run on rechargeable batteries, to avoid the big battery expense of the M-4.

Enter the Bear Cub, a nine inches light, with a 13 oz. weight that is rechargeable and uses Lithium Ion batteries.
This little light makes 220 lumens for 90 minutes of run time, and then recharges its two batteries with a fast charger that is included, in three and a half hours.
The Lithium Ion batteries can be recharged up to 1,000 times and when they eventually get depleted can be replaced with $30.

HERE IS A PICTURE OF THE  BEAR CUB LIGHT, NEXT TO THE SUREFIRE M-4.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/eme4nbcub.jpg)

AND HERE NEXT TO THE MAGLITE 6 D

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/mag6dpic.jpg)

And here a couple of beam shots at 26 yards for comparison.

MAGLITE 6 D

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/maglite6dbeam.jpg)

BEAR CUB

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/bearpeqenobeam.jpg)

Yes the little rechargeable Bear Cub is characterized for an intense white light, and a run time of 90 minutes, all in a small size that can fit in any glove compartment or trench coat pocket.
Best Wishes

Watchmaker






Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on March 17, 2010, 08:45:49 PM
SUREFIRE WEAPON LIGHT
RECHARGEABLE CONVERSION
345 LUMENS

Hi guys,
A member of another forum has this idea of boring the inside diameter of a Surefire 6P to accept a laptop computer Li Ion battery.
I did my own version and discover that I can get a 345 lumens lamp (LED new R-5) at close to two hours run time.

You can mount this baby in a 5.56 mm a 50 caliber or a shotgun, it will shrug recoil no matter what caliber you shoot.
How come?

The heavy spring on the lamp act as a shock absorber and prevent lamp battering by the battery. And been an LED is not filament to break down.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/Flashlights%202/surerech.jpg)

The special machined Surefire body is a part of the equation.
The Lamp is a new one by Thru Nite, it is the new Cree R-5 and output and incredible 345 lumens (well more than any Surefire weapon light)

http://www.surefire.com/M961XM07-with-Dual-Thumbscrew-Mount


This lamp is a flood/throw and is ideal to clear rooms with the AR.
For night hunting I am changing to a 300 lumens lamp that have a better throw (different reflector treatment) so those coyotes have to watch out.

The tail cap has a remote cable switch with pressure pad, so I can place it on the stock of my rifle or shotgun, under my thumb. Yes thumb pressure will activate the light.

Usually this type of light uses 123’s batteries, they go fast under the power of 345 lumens, so I opted for a long run time computer battery, rechargeable, that will last you close to 2 hours of run time.

Moreover, when I am unsure of how much battery juice is in the battery, I  just pop it into the charger and you get a full charged battery, ideal if I  practice much night shooting with my AR.
You cannot do that with 123’s primary batteries unless you are willing to dump expensive half used batteries.

Li Ion technology will provide extend use if I don’t use the light, an occasional full top charge every 5 months will keep the battery at full capacity.

I have used a crenellated bezel up front, but I am thinking to put a flat bezel as I think the crenellated is able to catch on brush,
I provided the light with a Weaver ring, but I am thinking to change it to some Quick detach lever mount like the Leupold  style Weaver style for the AR, as I don’t want it on the rifle when hunting Whitetails during the day in the laurel tickets ( I hunt with a mini 30).
Yes the Weaver detaches quick but I will need a coin from my pocket.
BEAMSHOT AT 30 YARDS AT MY USUAL LOCATION
So you can compare with any of my other beam shots from the past, I use the same camera setting for all beam shots.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/Flashlights%202/2010_022322ruger0011beamof345l.jpg)

This is the Quick Detach ring that I will use in my AR; it will fit the Picatinny or the Weaver bases.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/Flashlights%202/2010_030822ruger0005.jpg)

I mounted a magazine picatinny mount  in my home defense shotgun, so I will make another light for the Mossberg and I will have this one with a pressure tape curly cord switch, the curly cord have more reach than the straight 9” cable for mounting way out there under the barrel of the shotgun.

Cheers

Watchmaker







Title: Re: LIGHTS FOR HUNTING
Post by: watchmaker on May 14, 2011, 09:06:44 AM
THE TACTICAL LIGHT, THE DRIVEWAY PATROL AND THE BEARS

Hi guys,
Been working like a madman for a couple of years, little time to visit or do reviews, besides I am making my own tactical light now, rechargeable and with 350 lumens. I have two lamps for the light, a 1 level 350 lumens to use as a weapon light (I supply the pressure pad switch and the mount) and another lamp with five levels.


In a recent revision of the circuit of the 5 level lamp, the lower setting of 50 lumens was increased in run time to 24 hours!
So the lamp runs 350 lumens for 2 hours 20 minutes, 175 lumens for 4 hours 20 minutes and 50 lumens for 24 hours!
It also has a 350 lumens strobe and a 350 lumens SOS. And all this running on a rechargeable battery.


I have a private, secluded place in the Adirondacks where I fly fish for trout, it is a camping proposition, and in an area noted by a great amount of Bear traffic. It must be the berry patches or another feature of the terrain, but the place seems to be a preferred haunt by black bears. And I camp by myself for two or three days or until my fishing arm falls off.

Over the years I have had to chase several bears out of the campsite in the dark hours of the night. For years I have been using the Driveway Patrol as an alarm system, the PIR infrared of the sensor will detect body heat/movement up to 20/30 feet away, and the alarm chime inside the tent will wake me up.
I usually get up and opening the tent door I shine a powerful light (a Borealis 1,150 lumens) and in a gruff voice I tell the intruder to get out.
It works until now, but I am well aware that one day a cross bear or a mother with cubs can give me trouble or try to make a meal out of me.


So the new addition of the tactical light in the 50 lumens mode, permits me to flood the campsite area with light all night long, and still have battery juice for three more nights.
So when the alarm awakes me, just a look out of the screen door, will let me know beforehand what I am dealing with.

I put the alarm sensor on a ¼ “ pole and on top a piece of wood with a hole for the pole and the light secured on top. Actually I have two sets like that, so I also can see what is going on when I look out the side window.
Here is a picture of the set up.


(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/blackbear11784/optics/2004_02180009.jpg)


Of course I have Bear protection with me and I also take all the necessary precautions to keep an odor free camp, to the extend of cooking my meals and storing my food and clothing with scents, 200 yards away from my sleeping quarters.
If somebody is interested in the tactical, rechargeable light or in the weapon light, just send me an e-mail to
jcharles11784(at)yahoo(dot)com

The Driveway Patrol is available all over the net, the last time I bought it was $19.99 from same place in the net.
If you camp where Bears could be an issue, think about my set up, it could save you some aggravation or worst.
Cheers
Watchmaker