Rubber Roofs

[FinsnFur]

In all my years of construction, rubber roofing was one thing I managed to avoid the entire time.
Now I'm being faced with my own and I'm not 100% sure how to do it.

I did all kinds of research this morning, and discovered they have a rubber roofing called EPDM. It goes on with a contact cement like adhesive and requires no special equipment. I even watched a very informative video posted by RPI (Roofing Products Incorporated) and learned a quite a bit. Most of it was common sense and kind of self explanatory after having several years of regular roofing under my belt.

BUT!...my biggest question with doing this myself, which is why I hunted down the information to begin with, is how do ya do the edges? The RPI Video came to an erupt halt right when I think the guy was going to show me.  And he froze up like this.


I restarted the video, and he froze there again, so I'm thinking,...... well you know what I'm thinking. But see how he's got the edges all over sized there like he's going to go back and trim them and then.......and then what?

I looked for other videos and information, and everything I found, they would build a curb on the leading edge of the roof, apply rubber up and over it, and then cover it with aluminum coil stock.

I dont understand that, unless they plan to dump gravel on it, and that keeps the gravel in place, which I'm not doing. And that was a video from Firestone Roofing.

[possumal]

Jim, most of the rubber roofing we have put on porches, etc., over the years requires a commercial grade drip edge which mounts over the edge, and then we installed another strip of the roofing.  That was the torch down type which was the best going for a long time.  Now they have one that requires a base sheet which nails down, and it is made for the finish roofing to bond to to when you peel off the protective sheet. It is sticky as hell and you have to use a heavy roller  to make sure there are no air pockets.  If my memory serves me right, it is made by Owens Corning and is a super product.  Once you stick it down to the base sheet, it will never come loose.

[FinsnFur]

They recommend a new base for the EPDM roofing also.
Either regular plywood sheeting, OSB, insulation board, or a type of MDO board.

I've used the self adhering type before on jobs, but we used it for ice guard around the lower edges etc. If I remember right, THAT stuff does not hold up under direct sunlight. It's meant to be covered again with shingles.

[possumal]

The product I'm talking about looks a lot like the old roll roofing but it comes in different colors and has a shingle like surface.  I believe you may be talking about Iceguard and we used it around chimneys and down valleys.  I'll look up the actual product info and post it.

[HaMeR]

possumal has you leaning in the right way. It is a cross between ice guard & rolled roofing. Peel the paper off the back as you roll it out & it adheres to the deck & to itself on the edges & the end seams. Great for a homeowner project.

http://www.certainteed.com/products/roofing/308479

[FinsnFur]

Thats more of a rolled roofing by the looks of it, isnt it?
I dont think thats going to work cause I got one side wall on this application that I have to be able to climb with the stuff, at least 12".

[HaMeR]

It's more like the torch down stuff. It's rubbery & bends up the wall nicely. Get a piece of term bar for across the top & you're golden. We use quite a bit of that stuff. Matter of fact we just did a 170+/- sq/ft porch roof last Thursday with that same stuff. It came up the roof to the fascia on the house. Then we rolled it up the fascia & onto the roof deck. Left out the bottom row of shingles in that area. Ran the 2nd row of shingles & nailed them where they are supposed to be nailed & finished the shingles. Done & done. 

When that stuff warms up in the sun & you pull the backing paper off do NOT let it touch each other from the back side. I guarantee you will regret that decision. 

[George Ackley]

that stuff works,  you need a clean baseyou buy the rolls of base same place you get the rolls roofing
Glue the rolls of roofing along the seams,
edges go right up the walls to the top then get  mucked and fabric then get cover by your flashing


flat edges, are mucked fab and covers by capping by 3'' then mucked fab again over roof side of flashing

check on it once a year .


easy pleasy freshy squeasy


get good base
ps,, I tried to post this at 7 am but comp took a fart.

go to foofing supply not depot or bloews

any questons i will have my roofer call you and walk you though it

[possumal]

Jim, these dudes are telling you right about being careful touching the two surfaces together.  It is the stickiest damned stuff I have ever seen. I don't recall us using any glue on the overlaps but George might be right on that.  Its been a while since we did one.

[FinsnFur]

There's so many different kinds of it available now, and some glue on, some go on with a mastic, and some are self adhering, and I think everyone in this thread is talking about a different type.

[George Ackley]

 Jim ,
EPDM roffing come in rolls you can buy it 100' x 50'   50' x 20'   50' x 12'  it comes in many sizes

it is not going to come in a roll like a modified rubber . its like a pool liner one big peace .
you lay it on the roof cut to the size you need . then you pull over  1/2 on its self,, contact ceament the roof and the 1/2 folded over EPDM let it drie and fold back over on to the roof.
seams are dont just like i said in my first post.

now SDS robber rubber roofing will come in rolls that i think are 3' by 33' this stuff goes down with i think its called MB Gold GLUE .roller on the glue and run the 3'x33' roll ,,, over lap the seams and get the glue to just ooooooss out a little
seams are also done like in my first post

WHAT IS IT GOING OVER ? OLD ROOF OR NEW PLYWOOD.

bottom line seams are done the same way on each,,,,,  EPDM i have seen them screw it down on commercial jobs with screws  and plates

[George Ackley]

they would build a curb on the leading edge of the roof, apply rubber up and over it, and then cover it with aluminum coil stock.

let me help explain that,, if its a new construction job or your roof walls have a top that dont lead into a nother roof like city homes or condows you could run it over thew top and cap it . if your walls are like 12'' high and then 6'' top and the goes down the side of the home on the other side but if it is not like that you just run and glue the walls to the top and muck and fab and cap

[FinsnFur]

Yeah but I'm talking about the leading edge that faces the yard, away from the house, where the gutter goes, towards Pennsylvania.
I'm going to have to climb my fat aaaaaaaaaaaa up there with a camera aint I? 

[George Ackley]

ok , you should have a barge board that is on the side of your home that runs right at the height of your roof and all the way along the side wall of  your home with the gutter nailed to it .
your side wall siding should go right up to and under the  barge board .

so you run your roof system right to the edge of the roof ,,,"" now I muck and fab this after laying it and i mucK 3 to 4'' all along the roofs edge thats pointing tords PA "" and i do this right at the edge , you can remove old capping or muck right over it and add new capping then i also muck the top side of the new capping that's on the roof not the part that covers you barge board  just the flat part that is on the roof.

jim some times guys only cap down there barge board 3 or 4 '' on the outside  where it cover the side .and 3 or 4'' on the roof.  i capped the hole barge board on my home and its a 90% bend in the capping with 3 to 4 '' on the roof covering the mucked edge of the roofing material.
yours capping will go flat on the roof 3 or 4'' then bend and down the barge board and into your gutter, AGAIN I LIKE TO MUCK AND FAB THE TOP ROOF SIDE OF THE CAPPING

if you have a chimney in the roof same same, run the material up the side of the  chimney and flash it. if you have a brick chimney we call the flashing Philly flashing its were you would put  a heavy 1/4'' bend what we call a jog , it go's on the top of the chimney flashing to lay into the horizontal joint of the bricks cement line then neatly caulk .
the other side that rest on the roof ether gets a 1'' 90 bend to lay on the roof and caulk or if your pitch is bad in your roof then just jog it back into the wall and caulk .your  just covering the roofing material on the chimnney wall with the capping to help water proof it and make it look good from the ground

any pipes, vents or any other penetration in the roof remove the old roof flanges,,, lay the roof and install new ones right on top of the new roof and glue in a patch around the flange that's  now nailed down over the new roof

[HaMeR]

All you need is the self adhering Flintastic from the above Certainteed link. No tar. No tape. The most you'll have to do is run a termination bar across the top edge if you're going up a wall. If you're going up to the fascia just go up & over it like I mentioned. If you have a low pitch into a steeper pitch just pull the bottom 3,4,or 5 rows of shingles off, run the product however far you want it ran up the steeper pitch then just shingle back over it.    That stuff is rubbery & sticky & will seal around the nail shanks. You only need a fairly clean dry surface & some sunshine for it to adhere. We run new drip edge along the edges of the roof & primer it 1st with a roof sealing primer in a rattle can. Let that dry & you ainta gonna get it up again!! 


  THE ROOFING MATERIAL THAT IS!!!     

[FinsnFur]

I'm trying to figure out what a barge board is
I heard the word barge and I ran to the shop and grabbed my 7' Daiwa Steez Compile-X Bass Trigger Rod. I thought the smallies were running

Whats he talking about HaMeR, the facia board? I thought you were in Pennsylvania George, why you talking all European on me? 

I'm going to take some pics tomorrow, it's my last day off, it's the least I could do
The terminology "up and over the facia" makes no sense to me unless your starting this job from the lawn, and my arms just aint that long. So I'm going to have to start where the other roof ends, and then run it.....get ready for this..... "run it down over the facia".

But I'll takes pics tomorrow, providing it's not covered with snow again.

[George Ackley]

Glossary of terms Definition of words 

Word:   Barge Board

Definition:  Exterior visible flat trim board that follows the rake of the roof.

A decorative board covering the projecting rafter (fly rafter) of the gable end.

The exterior wide trim board spanning the distance from the roof ridge to the cornice return 


Bargeboard
the white trim in this photo.

[HaMeR]

I'm guessing barge molding Jim. That would be the,, usually 1 1/2" tall or so by 1 1/4" thick accessory molding over the flat fascia running up the gable edges. It usually has the ogee look to it.

http://www.ufpi.com/product/techtrim/barge.htm

But the way it's worded I'm thinking George is referring to your fascia. He mentions your gutters being nailed to it. I'm also thinking different areas have a little different terminology for the same things some times.

Up & over the fascia as in a porch roof built under your soffit & attached to the house wall. The roofing would then go "up & over the fascia" & onto the roof to be finished off with shingles across the top. 

I think we're all on the same page here. We're just not all in the same coloring book.   

Even with the snow on it we can figure it out with pics. Just drag your butt up a ladder & take pics from the ladder.  Use your cameras ...... zoom feature....... if needed. 

[HaMeR]

Posted almost the same time George.    I thought you meant fascia. Different areas & different terminology is all. 

[George Ackley]

this is the end i thought he was talking about




jim if its the fascia board you doit the same way as i said in the upper post