How to build a fur tumbler

[FinsnFur]

These first few shots give you an overall view of what were dealing with here. The front legs of the frame (right side) I made two inches longer then the rear to keep the drum from walking off the rollers. As you can see I set a block under the rear afterwards because two inches was too much. You'll be able to get by with an inch difference, still keeping the drum on the rollers and get good grit circulation both.
 I used 3/4 inch I.D. square tubing for my frame and layed it out to fit the width of my drum. Drums may vary so you'll need to adjust accordingly. I made my overall frame 12 inches wider then the drum and then moved the axles in 8 inches on each side to cradle the drum.

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 Below is a top shot of the frame itself. Spacing of the bearing and frame cross members aren't real critical. I wanted three drive wheels on each side, and the frame just a few inches longer then the drum. So I spaced it out accordingly. If you can't get a drum with perfectly straight sides as I use, then you'll need to locate the roller wheels so that they will come in contact with the drum at all times. Tapered side drums, you may have to move the two end rollers inward on each side.
 I used 1/2 inch cold roll for the axles and bushing style pillow bearings on each cross member of the frame to support the axles. If I could change anything, it would be to go with the roller type pillow bearings over the bushing style.
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Next is a close up of the pillow bearings and the roller wheels. I drilled through the shaft hole on the rollers and the drive axles, and then cotter pinned the rollers to the axle.
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Below is a end shot of the frame. I put a pulley on the end of each drive axle, opposite end of the motor, and put a belt out there to put power to both axles insync.
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In this next shot you'll notice a small black wheel towards the top of the photo, right above the idle shaft. I put that directly in the middle of the frame end and adjusted it to the right height so that the outter rim on the end of the drum rides against it at all times. Remember the legs for the frame are an inch shorter on one end then the other to keep the drum from walking off the rollers. The wheel holds the drum in place so it don't walk off the other way.
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The shot below show the motor and pulley set up. The motor is mounted under the frame itself.
 My motor has a 1/2 inch shaft that produces 1725 rpms at the shaft. I put a 3/4 inch pulley on that shaft, and decided to go with a 15 inch up on the drive axle. (The one directly above the motor in the photo) This worked out perfect giving me approx. 35 rotations per minute AT THE DRUM. 
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Bonus pics 
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[FinsnFur]

Next is the drum. You'll need a drum with a removable lid like in the photo below. It's tough to see here but this lid has a 2inch lip that actually fits inside the drum itself, and that lines up the two rims, the one on the lid and the one on the drum.
 The cam lever locking band allows both rims to fit into it, locking the drum lid in place.
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The shot below shows how I installed baffles in my drum. Baffles help lift the hide/s and the grit to prevent them from sliding and riding the bottom  all the time because of the slow rotation. 
 These were 1x4's simply caulked on one edge, and screwed through the sides of the drum.
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[josh]

I'm interested in making a tumber but haven't been able to find any pillow bearings.  Where did you find yours?

[FinsnFur]

I bought those at a hardware store up here.
You should be able to find them at any true value, or fleet farm, or tractor supply.

[studabaka]

http://www.mcmaster.com/

[josh]

 Thanks for the help, my local tsc store did not have any bearings with carrier brackets so i tried ace harder who ii know used to have them but no longer does. I live in Indiana where there is no farm and fleet so i will have to try and order the ones with bearing instead of bushings. Thanks again for your time . Josh                                                                                                     

[FinsnFur]

You'll be be glad you went for the bearing over bushing ones, trust me.

Let us know if you need any help along the way.

[nailbender]

 What happened to your photos Jim?

[FinsnFur]

I couldn't get JackMasters to remove my tutorial post over there on this, so I killed the pictures ruining their copy of it.
I see they took it down now. I'll round up the pics and get em back in.

[nailbender]

  That explains it.  Just referred a guy from T-man here before I had checked. Thanks!

[FinsnFur]

Well, I know what I'll be doing today

I moved the pics to a different folder, so they wouldn't show up on JackMasters, when I deleted the Champion Tannery site and put up the "Domain for Sale" notice, I deleted the pics as well.

Ok...where's my camera?

[FinsnFur]

Ok....I went took all new pics. They dont look as sweet now that everything has several hundred running hours on it, and is rusting up from the salt.

The plus side?...All the pics are clickable for larger views.

[Buckrun]

Is the fur tumbler for furs that have been tanned? Or are they uset to clean furs that have been just skinned, scraped and washed?

Steve

[FinsnFur]

Theres no need to clean them after they have been skinned, fleshed and washed. That would pretty much cover things before the tanning.

[Jerry Hunsley]

Hey, Jim and Tim, very nice looking tumblers. You guys do have some talent.