Hi there, im currently about to take the clutch out of my truck so i can put a new one in, and i am looking for some guidance on how i should go about this, im going through the tranny, but being that ive never taken a tranny out before i was wondering if anyone could give me advice and input, or even a step by step on how to accomplish it. Its a 1990 gmc sierra 1500, 4x4.
Tappen
I am gonna make a suggestion here that you get a repair manual for this truck there are alot of steps to take doing this, it should have a hydrolic clutch and you are in for a lesson when it comes time to bleed the air out of the system if your putting the clutch in it is a wise move to put a new slave cylinder in it also.
You need to take the boot off the gear shift that is held to the floor with screws and unbolt the shifter from the top of the tranny.some of those have a 2 part gear shit and you will take that one apart there you will need a tranny jack and you will also need to block the motor so it can't come down also
Take all the bolts out of the cross member under the tranny and the bolts out of the tranny mount in the center of the cross member,jack the tranny/motor up so you can take one side of the crossmember forward and the other side back that is the only way that cross member will come out of there no room to spare and you will get dirt in your eyes and keep your mouth closed while doing this task,disconnect the drive shaft Make sure this truck is blocked wheels chocked before removing the driveshaft.let the tranny and motor back down until it won't come down no further then block motor at this height.
Do Not try to man handle this tranny it is to heavy you must use a tranny jack
If you've never taken one out before, are you mechanically capable of doing it at all? I'm not saying that to demean you, I'm trying to figure where your knowledge starts and ends with this. :wink:
Get a Chiltons book, or do some Googling if your totally in the dark.
It's a fairly big job, and it sucks laying on your back doing it. Trust me. If you have two drift shafts you can eliminate dropping the transfer case, but thats the only positive I've got to mention. And it isnt enough to make the job any more pleasant.
I've done three of them, and I will never do another. :nono:
No worries jim, i get told alot by my stepfather im dreaming if i think i can do this, and it made me really really wanna do it. and it really is a big job but one im excited to learn from. It does have a hydraulic clutch bill which is where i thought(hoped more so) my problem was when it first happened, i bled them already. my conclusion thus far is that it is my fork and bearing being the problem, as when i bought the truck the bearing rattled around. I had also dissasembled my slave and cleaned it all in new break fluid, everything was still in good shape. so its back now, i reckon tommorow morning i will start. and i dont have a transmission jack so i made a wood platform with sides on it that fits around my tranny and bolted it to my floor jack, and im hoping it works good. I also took a 2x4 and screwed to chucks of 2x4 onto each en which will rest on my fenders where my hood goes which im going to chain somewhere on the motor so it will hold it up, i will also put blocks under it though. So tomorrow i take it apart, see what i need, go get parts and hopefully friday it goes back together. what will i need to do with tranny and tcase fluids?
Just 3 Jim :laf:
You shouldn't loose to much fluid unless you split the tranny and the transfer case
Your engine should set there by itself, there's another cross member under there. It sounds like your setting it up like we did to pull the tranny on a front wheel drive car.
If it's your throwout bearing, you might, and I can't believe I'm even saying this, but you might be able to swap it without dropping the whole tranny. If I remember right, you might be able to slide the tranny back far enough to reach that.
Oh, and the transmission oil isn't the same as your transfer case lube. The transfer case lube is going to be more like 20/50 or 80/90, you'll have to look that up.
It was three too many Bill. :laf:
Get yourself a Chilton's or Haynes manual. I get one for every vehicle I own wether I plan on working on it or not.
one of the bolts on the clamps that hold the ujoint in on my front driveshafts is rounded off, any idea on how to go about getting it outa there?
Erwin makes a set of bolt extractors that will remove a rounded off bolt. But I dont know our exact situation or what kind of cleareances you have where your bolts at.
you got it fairly easy I have to replace the timing chains and tenisioners and all my lash adjusters on my 01 F-150 4.6 liter. Probably be starting on that this weekend.
Quote from: Tappen on March 17, 2011, 11:51:15 PM
one of the bolts on the clamps that hold the ujoint in on my front driveshafts is rounded off, any idea on how to go about getting it outa there?
Yikes!
Those are 7/16's arent they? Did you round it or was it like that? I guess it dont matter, but if your using a open end wrench...KNOCK it off :laf:
You might be able to get a small but good pair of vise grips on the head and at least get it loose. But you better get the torch out and heat the yolk up that it's threaded into so it lets go of the bolt a little bit.
Next time, no open end wrenches, and spray them down with a lil panther piss several times, starting the day before. :wink:
Thats why the make 6 point sockets and wrenches
Take a hammer and punch and smack the head of the bolt get a 6 point socket that fits tight metric or sae one that will take a bit of abuse cause your gonna want ti hit it on there
a bit of heat on the yoke won't hurt a bit GM has been known to use lock tite on those and they can be very stubborn
Panther Piss I haven't heard that for a few years Dad called it that all the time :laf:
Is this the "U" bolt type?... If so it could just be cut off along the straight with a hack saw or cut off wheel, then slide out through the hole...loosen the other side then replace the u-bolt... If it's not a u-bolt you can try using a hammer and sharp chisel to make a notch in the nut... use a dull chisel to spin the nut off.... (glancing blow counter clockwise with the chisel).... If none of the above works there's always drilling it out.
Brad your out dated man :alscalls: :alscalls: :alscalls:
At work we call them straps they go over the cap and 2 bolts hold each one on, the bolts go into the yoke a clip goes on the u joint cap on the inside of the strap to keep the cap from slipping off if he cuts that strap he will probably have to buy a new u joint in order to get that strap
how do i know if i need to get my flywheel resurfaced?
Another problem i have is, my dash lights wont work, my shift light, check guages, battery, service engine, and all those lights work, but my speedo oil pres, gas and temp and whatnot doesn't light up, any ideas why?
Depends on how badly the pressure plate was worn down. If it was wore down enough to expose metal which then grinds on your flywheel, and you drove it a while longer you should get a new one. Depends on how badly ground up it is.
But keep in mind you have it apart now...replacing the flywheel now will be some pretty cheap insurance down the road. :wink:
Look at the flywheel you will see where the clutch disc sets It will be shiny now starting at the outer edge and going towards the center of the fly wheel take your finger and very slowly run your finger across once you get to where the clutch rides you will feel a indent on the fly wheel and then almost at the center you will come back up.Be careful doing this there could be some sharp steel splinters there and those cause blood and hurt for a long time
If the indent is very rough or 15 thousands .015 or more then I would take the fly wheel to the local machine shop and get it resurfaced and there they will be able to tell you if it can be done or if you should buy a new one
You may need to replace bulbs in the dash cluster
I am guessing that you got the bolt out of the drive shaft then
yes bill i sure did. i took a nut and welded it on after everything else was unsuccessfull, hurt my hand pretty bad trying to vice grip it off first though haha. And im gunna take my guage box apart today and go get new bulbs, one was burnt out when i bought it, i guess the other could of just went now to
well itook the box apart, and man oh man theres alot of bulbs in there haha. any other ideas on what it could be? maybe junkyard for a new dash?
Get a box of bulbs from the auto parts store and start changing them if you buy a used one you could end up with the same thing
Quote from: Bills Custom Calls on March 19, 2011, 05:32:22 PMif you buy a used one you could end up with the same thing
Could if he bought a new one :rolleye:.
so, i still cannot get this blinking front drive shaft off, undid the 4 t case bolt,s and i got it outa the yoke, but its so rusted on to the t case i cant break it free, any ideas? also, the next issue is gunna be my exhaust, as i cant drop my tranny without getting it out of there. how do i pull that all the way off my truck?
Quote from: Tappen on March 19, 2011, 06:13:57 PM
so, i still cannot get this blinking front drive shaft off, undid the 4 t case bolt,s and i got it outa the yoke, but its so rusted on to the t case i cant break it free, any ideas?
I am not sure what you done here so do you have the U joint out of the yoke on the t case or not
as for the exhaust all you need to do is take the cross over pipe off.
On each side of the bell housing you will see where the cross over pipe is bolted to the exhaust manifold 3 bolts each side,no need to take it all off
When pulling the tranny take 4 bolts out where the tranny bolts to the bell housing slide tranny back and you can get right into the bell bolts remove bell bolts and you can see the bolts that hold the clutch and pressure plate in
Clean all the bolts you can see and put some of that panther stuff Jim was talking about :readthis:. Enjoy yourself :biggrin:.
i got the ujoin free of the yoke that connect to the diff, but i cant get the driveshaft off the tcase.
Spray around the u joint caps that you took the straps off with the panther piss let soak for awhile take a pry bar put between the ujoint and the yoke and pry it will start to move you will just have to work at it
Quote from: Bills Custom Calls on March 19, 2011, 07:10:01 PM
take a pry bar put between the ujoint and the yoke and pry it will start to move you will just have to work at it
:eyebrownod: Took the words right out of my mouth, but you can also jack the back of the truck up a little bit to put some pull pressure on your shaft. Obviously you want to jack it by the frame, and not the differential, cause you want the differential to drop as you go up.
i can remove that crossover pipe? but its solid pipe from there right out the back? im pretty sure if i take that off it will still hang there
Hang on :holdon: :holdon: Are we working on a gas engine or a diesel
gas, 5l 305
Yes that makes a bit of a difference Gas engine no turbo
The Y pipe still bolts to the exhaust manifolds and it also bolts to the catylic converter you will
probably break the bolts or just cut the ones off the converter and put new ones in when you put it back together
There should be nuts on top of the bolts on the manifolds so those can be cut and replace with new ones also
Think cutting cat out and replacing it with straight pipe, and putting new muffler in would make it sound good?
...yeah but only until the Royal Canadian Mounted Boyz hear it. :laf:
Quote from: FinsnFur on March 19, 2011, 11:05:36 PM
...yeah but only until the Royal Canadian Mounted Boyz hear it. :laf:
:laf: :laf: :laf:
Yes Tappen that will work
Now you know we just broke the law by doing such
well I guess I don't know for sure if it is law but I know I am told we are not suppose to do that,yes it will work
There's a sign in the service station down here that reads;
Dont ask me to remove your catalytic converter and I wont ask you to pay the $2500 fine.
hahaha, alright well maybe ill put that idea on hold for a while. So i think ill finish this job today, got my clutch kit in yessterday, and as long as my fork is in good shapei should be fine as i have everything else new. I have an idea, and hat is that im just gunna slide tranny and tcase back on the crossmember i.stead of taking them both out, whats yours guy's opinion on that?
Never tried that,but anything is worth a try
how much fluid should i expect to lose when splitting t case and transmission? and it seems that my tranny and bell housing done split up? they d but its a ways back, ill show you in this illustration.
(http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/8592/tranorbell.jpg) (http://img233.imageshack.us/i/tranorbell.jpg/)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
that place with the waffle designe on it, and the question mark, is that the bell housing or the tran? that black line where i wrote bolts is the only place where it could be. its only place where the bell housing can seperate, unless its solid?
You don't want to separate it there.I have never taken the t case off one while in the truck so I can't say how much fluid your gonna loose
If there aren't 4 bolts that hold the tranny to the bell then you will have to let the tranny/motor down take the bell bolts out that hold the tranny to the motor then slide it back
let the motor down???? cant i just take the bolts off that connect bell to motor and slide it all back? and then put new clutch in from front of bell?
You can try but there isn't much room to work a wrench up in there
well, let the motor down? that seems like a heck of alot of work, im going to take the tcase off now, and try taking bell housing off motor then sliding it all back.
Ok it might work out just fine
I have to re evaluate and possibly retract some of my prior comments and suggestions during this ordeal since seeing that picture, Tappen.
I don't think were on the same page :laf:
whys that jim? haha bad picture?
Just giving ya a hard time. :laf:
Why arent you out laying under that thing?
i go out, doo what i can, and then i come in and ask my questions :laf: I really wish i had someone here to help me, its quite the task for me to take on.
I am guessing that you didn't get the Chiltons repair manual
i got the haynes, and ive been using it, and im still here asking questions, heh
Ok Good enough
boy, t cases are heavy, haha, now to pull the tranny and bell housing off the motor, and man its colt out there :argh:
I dont envy ya, thats for sure. You have to go on the other side of the truck and pull me under by my hands. Then when it was time to go in and warm up and ask questions, you'd have to grab my ankles and pull me back out. :laf: :doh2:
hahaha, so icant pull it back, as the floor of my cab goes down right behind it, so now i do have to take my exhaust off so i can drop it down, which means what? there is a pipe off each header, driver side one goes under tranny over to passenger where they join into one pipe. but if i undo them both at the headers, it will still be in my way, unless i cut it? as theres nothing else there.
I really do appreciate the help guys, its been great, just please bear with me untill it is done, haha
On the bottom of the housing where my slave cylinder goes there is a hole for a big big bolt, but no bolt in it. and all the stuff from the road flies up in there, is it suppose to be like that?
probably not
Say whaaaaaat! :laf: Take a picture of this hole for a BIG BIG bolt...I wanna, I say I wanna see it. :eyebrownod:
now that i have my clutch and everything exposed, how do i know what the problem was
I don't know cause you never said what it was doing the reason you wanted to change the clutch
was the clutch slipping
will clutch fluid go through my line if the slave cylinder is not on the end? or will it get full of air? i took it off, so now i have to put clutch slave cyl on other end, and bleed it? right?
You took the line off and all the fluid ran out of the reservoir Right Just leave the line off until after the tranny is back in and your ready to work on that.
Now you need another person have your buddy stand at the res and keep it full with break fluid as you lay under the truck and wait for fluid to run out the line,wait for pretty much a steady stream then hook the line to the slave cylinder and open the bleeder on the slave cylinder and let the fluid run make sure you fill the res at least 3 times before you close the bleeder,most of the air should be out of the system,fill the res
Now have your buddy get in the truck and push the clutch one time to the floor and hold it while you crack the bleeder open close the bleeder and repeat the process a few times keep an eye on the res do not let it go empty after 3 or 4 times of a one push bleed now pump the clutch pedal up till you have a full pedal and let set for 10 minutes and try the clutch pedal if you have to pump the pedal to get a full pedal you must continue to bleed the system
I hope this helps
Did we get the clutch put back in this truck yet
Com'n this old man wants to go for a ride
Yeah whats going on here? :laf:
I think he has given up on us
yep, cluthc it is, and tranny has been back in and back out 2 times haha, right now, my tranny exhaust t case is all back on, an i have to take it all back off, cause my fork fell off, the little fork holder on the pivot ball stud broke off, so instead of waiting to get a new one i wanted to put it all backtogether and hoped the fork would stay on. It didnt, and i regret it now, new one comes in tuesday
(http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/4067/pivotv.jpg) (http://img696.imageshack.us/i/pivotv.jpg/)
So if everything goes right, it should be back together tuesday night.
Gawd I miss that shiii :doh2:
all altogether and working somewhat, but i had a plugin that goes to tranny that i could not find! does anyone know what this is for? i think it might be reverse as now my truck just grinds and wont go into reverse. But it will shift int other gears, i have a messed hydraulic line which could also be it that it doesnt have enough pressure to disengage clutch enough, but it shifts into other gears.
When you put the truck in forward gears how far off the floor does the clutch pedal come up before the truck starts to move if the clutch grabs pretty much right away you still have air in the hydrolic system
As for the plug in I have no idea but my guess would be it goes on top of the tranny for the back up lights that is the one that gets missed the most
I know i have air in it bill, my line is screwed, need to get a new one, problem there is the only place i can find one is junkyard. if i can find one in a junkyard, their discontinued
Give me all the info on your truck
Year Make and Model does it have a internal or external slave cylinder does the line go to the driver side or the passenger side of the tranny
If the line is broke you can fix that with a 1/4 inch brass union the kind that has compression fittings and the steel inserts that go in the line
The air in the line is the reason the tranny has problems going in reverse
1990 gmc sierra. 305, 5 spd manual. 4x4. line goes from driver side to passenger side. i dont know if its external or internal, dont know the difference, id assume external as it bolts to the side off bellhousing and the rod is inside bellhousing. running pretty short on time to get this thing back on the road. its killing me! :argh: :argh:
do you want the vin?
Don't need the Vin Might have a used one at the shop I will look and see
alright, thanks a bunch bill
Ah man there's the problem! I thought we was pulling a C6 out of an F150 :doh2:
That Chevy isnt even worth fixin Tappen. :wink:
:alscalls:
so, when i turn my headlights on it turns my heater off, any ideas
If you turn the headlights off does the heater go back on?
Quote from: FinsnFur on April 02, 2011, 09:41:06 PM
Ah man there's the problem! I thought we was pulling a C6 out of an F150 :doh2:
That Chevy isnt even worth fixin Tappen. :wink:
:alscalls:
:alscalls: :alscalls:
Tappen how did you get the Lights and heater crossed up by changing the clutch or has this always been a problem
Is the truck running or are you just sitting in it and turning things on and off
Someone call his house. The power locks acted up and he's locked in the truck. :wink:
well i went for a bit of a drive, but with no clutch. and the heater doesnt turn off, it just doesnt light the face anymore, and my dash lights still dont work either.