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I started this project after leaving it sit for a long time in the shop. 

I got knife kit from the net.  Then when I was at a local rondy I picked up some seriously figured curly maple blanks for cheap.  They were drops off of gun stocks.  I started out by grinding down the tail end of the tang to shorten the handle a bit.  It seemed awkward and too big in the hand.  then got the sharpie out and drew the knife handle shape out.  I also did some file work on top of the blade.  I seen this on a lot of custom knifes and I think it adds a bit to it. 
 
(http://www.bigbenoutdoors.com/images/bobknife1.jpg)

I glued it up, pinned it with brass pins, and ruffed it in on a belt sander.  from there was hand sanding from 80 to 150 to 240 to 400 to 600 grit sandpaper.  and this is where it is now.

(http://www.bigbenoutdoors.com/images/bobknife2.JPG)
(http://www.bigbenoutdoors.com/images/bobknife3.JPG)

now a question for you guys.  I want the curls to come out of this wood.  I was wondering what is the best way to do this?  do you dye then polish?  or do you dye then sand and dye some more?  I am looking for a typical curly maple look of deep red/maroon/blood color.  do you guys got any suggestions?  I believe I heard about birchwood casey gun stock oil.  but I heard from a friend that they typically run fine steel wool over it after the coats.  any input would be greatly appreciated. 

I know the pics kinda suck.  once finished I will get some video of it to show the angles and light hitting it certain ways. 

I also found out it was the epoxy I was using that was giving me an allergic reaction.  so next time I guess I will be using latex gloves.  only thing I can figure is I got some on my fingers and rubbed my eyes. 

http://www.logcabinonline.com/index1.html

I have used the Wahkon Bay Aquafortis on some curly maple and have been pleased with the results.  They have it listed on the site Glen sent you to.

Jerry

thanks for the tips guys.

O.K. I have a little more time today and can give a "decent" reply. 

I normally start using dye or stain when I have sanded between 220 and 300.  This leaves the grain open so that the stain can get down into the grain.  I usually found that if I had too fine of a sanding finish that the stain sort of laid there on the surface and didn't do what I wanted.  If you are using a water base stain it will raise the grain and need to be sanded down again.  I normally am only working on one project at a time (so I don't get lost or forget the other project   :rolleye:)  and use an old hair dryer to speed the drying process along.  If you are using an alcohol or similar base stain there will not be the grain raising like a water base - there will be some, but not much.  I then go on to the next grit paper (say I started at 220, it would be 300) and again stain.  Next grit and stain.  When I get to the final grit and am not seeing any scratches in the wood, I don't add another coat of stain.  I then proceed to the finishing.  If the grain is not showing (the whole piece of wood is too dark) you can go to a rougher grit of sand paper and take some of the top layer off which should reveal the hard wood and allow the stain to continue to show in the softer grain.  {Edit}  If you need to lighten the wood by sanding skip the additional coats of stain and just lightly sand down to the sanded finish you like.  {Edit}


This was not what I would call a superior piece of Curly Maple, but it will give you an idea.

Jerry

Thanks for the rundown jerry.  I am gonna try to work on finishing this knife through the week/weekend.  but life has me busy at home right now so hopefully it doesn't sit on the shelf unfinished for as long as it sat unstarted. 

One of the good things about a project like this is that there isn't a due date.  I always like it when I can work on a project whenever I want - not that I usually don't want to get it done quickly, but having the ability to work when I want is nice.

Jerry

yeah but I hate starting a project and not finishing it.  I am prob going to make a leather holster for it as well since I don't think the ballistic nylon looks good.

I got tired of looking at this knife laying on my shelf at home and decided to finish it.  finish turned out exactly what I was looking for.  thanks for the help hawks feather on how to bring the color and contrast out.  this sucker looked a lot better in person. 

Looks great to me.

Jerry

Looks good Ben!  That's some very nicely figured maple too!

There's some fine looking stripes in that Maple Ben!! Very nice!!  :yoyo: :yoyo:

it came out exactly like I wanted.  The other side doesn't have as many curls in it but it still looks good.  now I need to make a leather holster for it.  the nylon one holds it but yesterday afternoon while carrying it from the truck to the house I dropped it on the concrete.  put a smash right in the one corner which it isn't noticeable by looking at it but you can feel it.  the holster that came with it was meant for a skinnier handle and wont hold it in place properly. 

Yep, turned out nice. Good skinning knife. :congrats:

By the way, that old truck hood needs a wax job :biggrin: :wink: