Call cost

[duckslayer]

When you go to sell your calls how do you determine what they are worth.  I would like to be able to make some calls so sell one day but would not have a clue on what to ask.  Also, side question, when you go to turn your calls do you have a shape already picked out or do you let the wood kind of determine its own shape.

[Hawks Feather]

First the easy part.  When I start to turn I usually have a shape in mind.  The problem is that my hands and eyes like the shape that I have been making since shortly after I started and they usually end up looking like some clone.  When I really do get something different, I usually don't like it.   

Pricing is a bear.  Part depends on what wood/materials are used.  If it is a stick of 2x4 for the body and a JC reed without a sleeve stuck in the end, you don't have much money invested in the call and can sell it cheaper.  At the other end, if you have a piece of stabilized Amboyna Burl with an Ebony or Blackwood mouthpiece, you have much more money invested and will need to get more for the call.  Assuming the calls take the same amount of time to turn, you are looking at the difference in pricing being the additional cost of the materials.  The next thing that comes to my mind is the quality of the finish work on the call - not the finish, but the finish work.  If there are sanding or chisel marks left it is not worth as much (at least to me) as if it has been properly worked down to smooth wood.  Then comes the actual finish that is placed on top of the wood.  Sometimes it looks perfect and sometimes they look like they would have been better left without a top coat finish applied due to runs, drips, dust, etc. in the finish.  Then too, is the inside finished - not that it has to look as good to me as the outside finish, but if it gets wet (even from me just blowing it) I don't want moisture inside the call.  So, it depends (at least to me) on the above.  When I was starting I was selling calls for $20 and while they were worth the price, they were not as well designed or finished as what I currently do - that is the reason that I no longer sell calls for $20.  So, to wrap things up, if I were starting again today and had what I felt was a quality call, I would probably start prices between $20 and $25 to get my name out there and get started.

Just my 2¢,

Jerry

[Coulter]

Jerry pretty much summed up the pricing aspect. You will also need to consider the time you have invested in the call unless you like to
work for free As far as the shape of a call goes, I have a heck of a time with that myself. I have settled on a few designs that I like. When I attempt to think of a new design and actually try to apply it to the wood it just doesn't work. The wood almost always tells me to steer away from what my mind is thinking and I end up with a design completely different than the one I intended to make.

I do finally have a new predator call coming out real soon that nobody knows about yet...not even Todd I have a few more minor changes that I want to make to the design then I have to test it a bit before I decide if it is worthy of going public with. I have tossed out numerous inferior attempts (scraps of good wood) at making this call, but I think I finally have it down to where I want it. I really have to start using junk wood in the designing stages

Steve

[Jimmie in Ky]

They told you about pricing. But the design you use is as much a part of your signature as the one you write on it. Find a shape you can do easily and quickly that suits you and the type of calling you do. If you prefer open water calls then focus on those until you can do them with your eyes closed. Then tinker around with other types with your design style. Jimmie

[alscalls]

Right now I just make the call the way I feel the wood wants to be done and go slow and keep stopping to look at what it wants or needs.....if it turns out fine if not I try again..........I just cant decide on on design but I am seeing a pattern that I do tend to like now. Price ?? I just try to stay competitive though I think they are sometimes worth more, I just enjoy doing it.

[pitw]

Okay as most of you know and the ones that don't should,  I don't build calls so I can give my thoughts on cost from a buyers point of view.  If any of you who build calls sell them for to much I haven't seen it.  I will pay you guys that take the time to do the best you can on a call far more than I'd ever pay for the bubble wrapped ones at Wally's.  For gosh sake don't work for free or you will soon be to busy to work for me.  I enjoy just looking at every call I get and am some glad I found this site. 

[msmith]

I can't comment as far as cost goes. On the shape, personally I think the wood dictates that. For example, if you have a nice peice of wood such as bocote that is good looking but has some boring grain, then snazz up the call with some interesting shapes to enhance the wood and bring out some bullseyes and such. If you have a nice peice of burl, then keep it simple with some soft lines and something that feels good in the hand. Let the natural beauty of the wood come out and not be obscured with too fancy of lathe work. JMO.

[HuntnCarve]

Above all, respect the other call makers designs.  Any woodworker worth his salt can copy another persons style or product.  Does that make it their design?  The answer is "no".  Some folks just don't care about this aspect of call making.  They see something that another person is selling, and immediately jump on the bandwagon with no regards to the time, and effort that individual went to to develope that call.  I personally have no respect for these individuals.  I've said it before.  "Sometimes you have to take the high road".  You will be respected, and admired for it in the end. 

Dave

[Hawks Feather]

Good point Dave.  You know, since I am not any good at the carving aspect of call making, could you just make me some designs that I can trace on the calls that I make?  That way I can make calls that look as good as the ones you make.   :shck:  I wouldn't be able to carve them in and make them look really good like you, but I could use carbon paper and put the image on MY calls.

Jerry   


For those of you not in on this, Dave and I have talked "more than once" about calls being copied.  We both realize that there are only so many designs and all of that, but personally I feel that Dave's calls are unique.  When someone asks for help, which is usually given, and then that person turns around and copies one of the carvings that Dave has done, it is just plane WRONG.

[duckslayer]

First I want to say that I would never copy anybodys calls, that is something that they worked hard on and put the time into comming up with something that represents them as a person and a call maker.  If you look at all the different calls ( for me duck calls ) they all have different shapes and designs and I can look at the call most of the time and tell you who made it.  BUT, as a new person to this I think you have to start somewhere and I think the only way to do that is to try and copy someone elses call.  Not that I would sell that call, I would give it away or sell it to friends or family for what I have in it.  But I dont think you can just come up with a totaly new design right off the bat.  Now eventualy I would like to come up with something that no one else has done and make that design mine.  But for right now, as you can see, I am keeping with the most basic stlye of duck calls that has been around for years.  But I will get there one day, just dont want to make anyone upset before that time.

[Coulter]

Here are a couple duck calls for you not to copy, but just to give you an idea that there are still designs out there to be created. I don't think you'll find another duck call out there that looks like either one of these. I know I have tried and failed...that is one reason I am sticking to these designs. Now the top one does bear a striking resemblance to one of my predator calls, but I reserve the right to copy off of myself.





Steve

[Yotehntr]

I agree with most of the others! Especially with Dave and Hawk. Some folks will act like if you copy their calls it's ok....but it's not! As you said to start out it's almost a must, and a good way to learn, but don't sell them.

Steve those calls are freakin AWESOME!!!

There  is a lot of great advice on pricing above, I struggle with this myself, and think most call makers do. One thing is certain though, if your selling to cheap you won't be able to keep up with orders. If your asking to much, you'll have 'em piled up at the house.

[Jimmie in Ky]

Ducky, don't worry about copying , just play with it and learn. Put together some calls that work and keep on going. You will be surpised at how fast you come up with a pattern of your own that way.

Take box calls for instance. They all look alike in some way but there are subtle diferences that each call makers puts into his own work.

The guy that came up with the egg shaped tube call was tinkering with vase designs when the idea came to him. He gave it a whirl and it worked.

There are still a lot of design ideas out there. Jimmie

[ninthinning]

That is a very nice duck call that can be made as a closed reed predator call by shortening the sound board and reed.  A short  J-frame sound board makes a very nice distress call.  By varying the width, length and thickness of the reed you can imitate rabbit, bear, cat, bird and many other animal sounds predator hunters are interested in.  If you make a narrow air channel you can make a nice narrow reed that will make a good quality, agonizing prey in distress sound.  Bronze phosphor, brass and mylar reed material give you an infinite range of possibilities. You can also put a JC reed in the insert.  As for price, a two piece call like the one pictured will bring $45 in quality wood like cocobolo and increase from there depending on the material.  That call in acrylic would go for $65.   My call style utilizes Arkansas and Louisiana sound boards and also JC reeds. The call is a simple duck call style two piece prey in distress that sells well.
Good luck,
9th