Reloading equipment

[CCP]

Just curious of what products you guys are using in your reloading and your preferences?

After several years of reloading and using lots of different products brands through the years I have a few preferences.

Presses

RCBS JR3
Dies- I have a mixed lot from most all the major manufactures.
Favorites
Lee Deluxe/Collet
Redding
Least favorite dies
RCBS and Hornady


Scales

Favorite
Lyman 500
Worst
Lee

Powder measure

I have bought and used so many powder measures through the years and was never content with just one. I would usually end up using several different ones on my bench for different powders. Then around 7 or 8 years ago a guy in the reloading shop told me to try a plastic Lee , I was like “what the hell its only 20.00 bucks. “Well after doing what the instructions said and ran a full pound of h110 through it I found it to be the most accurate thrower of any I have owned. Sold all the others and have never looked back.

Favorite
LEE

Case lube

Favorite
Hornady “ONE SHOT” can’t imagine using anything else.

Primers

Favorite
CCI  BR for rifles with Win brand being my favorite for hand gun.

Cases

Favorite
Federal with Win being my second choice.

Calipers

Favorite
Lyman Stainless steel dial (inexpensive and accurate)

Trays

Favorite
Plastic, MTM case guard.

Bullets

I use them all, it is up to the gun, caliber and what I am shooting at but, it does seem that Nosler and Hornady boxes outnumber the other brands on y loading table.

Case trimmer

Haven’t found one I truly like so far. I have been using the  Lyman Universal  Carbide Case Trimmer for the past 8 or so years and can’t say I love it other than it works. (Any suggestions?)

Powder trickler

Favorite
RCBS

Reloading books

All of them cant ever have enough resources to pull from.

[Hawks Feather]

Presses:  RCBS Rock Chucker, Forster CO-AX, Sinclair Arbor Press, Neil Jones Custom Products Arbor Press, Dillon 550B

Dies:  Neil Jones Custom Products Hand Dies, Wilson Hand Dies, RCBS, Redding, Lee, Bair, Dillon, Lyman, Pacific

Scales:  RCBS 10/10, RCBS Digital

Powder Measures:  Neil Jones Custom Products, Harrell Schuentzen, RCBS Little Dandy, Redding 3BR, Redding BR-30, RCBS, Lyman

Case Lube:  Imperial Wax, RCBS Case Slick, Hornady One Shot, RCBS

Primers:  Federal 205M, Federal 210M, CCI BR2, CCI BR4, Winchester small & large, Remington small & large

Cases:  Lapua, Norma, Winchester, Remington, Star, Lake City, PMC

Calipers:  Mitutoyo, Starrett, Simec

Trays:  Sinclair Poly, MTM, Wood

Bullets:  Nosler, Barnes, Berger, Winchester, Remington, Lapua, Bart’s, Sierra, Hornady

Case Trimmer: RCBS, Wilson (slow, costly, but dead on accurate)

Powder Trickler:  RCBS

Reloading Books:  Sierra, Nosler, Hornady, Hodgdon, Vitavori, Lyman

Priming Tools:  Sinclair, Lee, K & M

Neck Turning Tools:, Jaco, K & M, Sinclair, RCBS

Decapping Tools:  Neil Jones Custom Products

Case Trimmer:  RCBS, Giraud, Gracey

[FozzyBear]

Press: CH made in the late 60 Dies: Lyman RCBS Scales: Lyman Case Lube: S.T.P. oil trement Primers: C C I 200 Magem  Power maser: RCBS Power Triler: RCBS 

[JohnP]

Press:  Two Dillon 1000's, one Dillon 550 and one RCBS Rock Chucker

Dies:  RCBS, Redding, Lyman, Dillon

Scale:  RCBS 10/10

Powder Measurer:  Dillion

Primers:  CCI BR & Winchester

Cases:  Winchester & Military

Calipers:  Dillon

Trays:  MTM

Trickler:  RCBS

Reloading Books:  Just about all of them

Case Lube:  Hornady

Case Trimmer:  Forrester

Bullets:  Nosler and Sierra

[Carolina Coyote]

Only been reloading about 7 years and do not have a lot of equipment but this is a good post and often wondered what everyone was using and methods.

Presses :              Rock Chucker, Lee

Dies:                    Lee, RCBS, Redding, Forster

Scales:                 Pact BBK II

Powder Measure: Saucer, Scale , Tea spoon is what I use, I have RCBS, LEE, after seeing what CCP said about the Lee I may try it.

Case Lube:           My Preference is Redding Imperial Sizing Die Wax, I have and tried just about everything

Primers:              Winchester

Cases:                 Remington, Winchester, Federal

Calipers:              Frankford Arsenal ( cheap but works)

Trays:                 Sinclair's, RCBS

Bullets:                Hornady v-max, Nosler accu-bond, Speer, Barnes, Combine Technologies , Sierra

Case Trimmer:     RCBS, Lee

Powder Trickler:   RCBS

Reloading Books:  Speer, Lyman, Internet

Micrometer:         Lyman, Brown & Sharpe

Bullet Comparator: Hornady

I have some questions about what some of the steps in reloading if any of you do or if you think its necessary or not.

1- Do any of you sort brass by weight?
2- Do any of you check the Bump on the shoulder and How?
3- Do any of you check the Concentricity  and how.?
4- Do any of you sort Bullets by weight, measurement from base to Ogive or do any Bullet pointing. or any thing else to enhance the bullet?

These are a few questions I have because I have been reading a lot of articles on how to improve my loads and these are some of the things I have come across in my research  and have tried some of them. Bullets, Brass and Primers all have varying weight and all of these thing affect performance so I was just wondering how many of you go to that detail. cc

[slagmaker]

Press: RCBS RockChucker

Scales: RCBS 5-0-5

Case trimmer: RCBS Trim Pro

Powder trickler: RCBS

Powder thrower: RCBS

Case lube: RCBS lube pad

Calipers: Stearet

Shell holders: Lee deluxe set

DeBurr: RCBS

Primer pocket prep tools: RCBS

Hand held Primer press: RCBS

Trays: RCBS, Hornady

Dies: Lee

Powder: Good God man!!

Primers: Good God man!!

Bullets: Good God man!!

Bullet puller: RCBS kenitic puller "Hammer type"

Reloading manuals: Sierra edition V, Speer #13-#14, Hornady 7th edition, Nosler 5th edition, One book/One caliber reloading manual for each caliber I have.

Bullet compariator: Stoney Point

Edited to add:  I think I may try one of the Lee powder throwers. My RCBS dont like stick type powder at all.

[vvarmitr]

I use mostly Lee stuff. 

[Carolina Coyote]

Come on VV you can do better than that.  cc

[GunDog]

Press: Dillon Sq Deal "B" with five Caliber Conversion Kits,  RCBS Rock Chucker, Lyan T-Mag, Mec 9000GN, Mec 600JR Mark 5

Dies: RCBS, Redding, Lyman, Hornady, and LEE

Scale: Lyman Digital

Powders: Vihtavuori, Hodgdon, IMR, Alliant, Winchester

Powder Measurer: Lyman

Powder Trickler: Redding, RCBS,  Lyman

Powder Funnel: MTM Universal Powder Funnel Set and Lyman
 
Primers:  CCI, Winchester, Wolf, Remington BR, Federal

Cases: Lapua, Lake City, Winchester, Remington, Hornady

Calipers: Frankford , Starrett  

Micrometer: Lyman Case Neck Ball Vernier Micrometer

Trays:  Frankford, MTM

Reloading Books:  Ken Waters PET LOADS, Lyman, Nosler, Hornady, Speer, Sierra, and all the pamplets collected with the powder

Case Lube:  RCBS & Lyman Lube Pads

Case Trimmer:  Lyman

Bullets:  Nosler, Sierra, Speer, Hornady, Barnes, and as of today about three thousand of Midways blemished!

Bullet compariator: Stoney Point with about eight different modified cases and compariators

Bullet Casting: molds, pot, furnace, dipper, resizing dies, is all LEE right now.

Mostly RCBS and Lyman hand tools, such as primer pocket cleaner, reamers, deburring tools, flash hole uniformer, etc

So much as for trying to stay with one brand! Last but not least I use the real good, cheap safety glasses!

[JohnP]

I have some questions about what some of the steps in reloading if any of you do or if you think its necessary or not.

1- Do any of you sort brass by weight?
2- Do any of you check the Bump on the shoulder and How?
3- Do any of you check the Concentricity  and how.?
4- Do any of you sort Bullets by weight, measurement from base to Ogive or do any Bullet pointing. or any thing else to enhance the bullet?


CC in a different life I did everything you mentioned.  Now I don't do any of it except at times I'll weigh the bullets but that's more out of curiosity than anything else.  Not sure what you mean by "Bump on the shoulder".  In a hunting situation I don't think you need to go through all that stuff except overall cartridge length. 

[Yotehntr]

Hey John I have sorted my brass by weight...recently read about the many different measurements to check on the bullet... the best reading I've ever done on loading was written recently on another forum I'm on.. This guy is a bench rest shooter and would put me to shame if you're interested he has a series of 5 posts.  Here's a link.  http://www.tnpredators.com/Forums/viewforum/f=25.html

[GunDog]

Mr John you know I am about as new to this hands on all the time reloading (other than shot shells) as one can be, but I have been around a lot of it about all my life. I would "think" that the "Bump on the shoulder" would stay pretty good (if not loaded hot) as long as the brass used had been fire formed to a certain rifle? I do keep a check on the length as I'm recycling the brass, and I record it's use.      

I do weigh and sort my brass after trimming into different "batches". I also like to weigh and sort my bullets in the same fashion. Does it actually help - I think it does help me. I have the stoney point that I use to find that "sweet spot" in the free bore to set my bullet (I did use a magic marker for this in the old days) as well as the comparator to measure the ogive on them. I don't "polish" the nose of the bullets as I have seen some do and they swear it makes a big difference, nor do I doubt it does for them.

I think a lot of bad shots could have been made better with confidence ... and then there's those shots that nothing you did could have helped them - grin.

I am glad you asked the questions as I think this is a very good subject also! Hope your old feet and legs are feeling better tonight - we've been praying for ya!

[vvarmitr]

Come on VV you can do better than that.  cc

I tried twice & had it so botched up I deleted it. 

But I will add a couple things that are important to me .....

One thing use that I don't see others have is a Scale Check Weight Set. Most of the time I can set my scale exactly to the weight I want using the weights rather then zeroing out then moving up. I feel my loads are much more consistent from batch to batch.

My powder trickler is a 30Carbine case. I hate those daym trickler thingies!

I have an attachment for a Benz-o-Matic for annealing my brass from the Woodchuck Den.

I debur flashholes & uniform primer pockets, but I don't neck turn.

One other thing I really appreciate is the Frankford Arsenal case specific loading trays. Ever try balancing a funnel on top a case that doesn't quite fit in a Universal tray & you'll know what I mean. 

There Carl, does that make you happy.

[Hawks Feather]

I do all four, but usually am more concerned when it is being used for my bench gun.  Groundhogs don't seem to be able to tell if there is much difference.  That being said, if I got some real junk - major problems in any of the items listed I would be tempted to not use it except for fouling shots, etc.

1- Do any of you sort brass by weight?
I do, but with brass you do get what you pay for.  If you want better brass check out Lapua or Norma - when you get done weighing they will usually be fairly close.  If you weigh after you turn necks, deburr the flash hole, and square the primer pocket you will get different results because you have removed some of the brass.  This weight change is more noticeable in cheaper brass.

2- Do any of you check the Bump on the shoulder and How?
I have some bump dies that were made for my 6BR that fit my "reload in the field" press.  I also have some Redding body dies which will not touch the neck area of the case.  Then there are the Wilson dies that can be used.

3- Do any of you check the Concentricity  and how.?
I like the NECO Concentricity, Wall Thickness, and Runout gauge the best, but also have a Sinclair gauge.  The NECO gauge allows you to also check wall thickness so that you can mark the case with the thin or thick wall and then put the brass into the gun with that point in the same direction each time.

4- Do any of you sort Bullets by weight, measurement from base to Ogive or do any Bullet pointing. or any thing else to enhance the bullet?
Bullets are a little like brass, you get what you pay for.  That does not mean that lower priced bullets are not good, but it does mean that I have found some brands like Berger to be better than some of the others.  Again, when it comes to groundhogs and not paper, I use some of the bulk "no name" bullets.  That is based on the fact that most of my groundhog shots are under 150 yards and an inch to the left or right is not a problem with hitting the head of the groundhog.

Jerry

[Carolina Coyote]

Thanks very much guys, Mr JohnP , On the Shoulder Bump I am referring to the measurement from the face of the brass to the ogive, after reloading Brass several times some times it gets hard to chamber in the rifle could be from the loads being a little to Hot, just wondering if anyone was using any kind of gauge to check that before loading, I am trying to eliminate as much sizing as possible just get it down to neck sizing. I am shooting a 243 Wssm and the little short fat case I think will last longer if I can just do neck sizing. Lapua and Norma do not make 243 wssm brass so I'm stuck with Win, Rem or Fed. Have any of you used the RCBS Precision Mic Gauge?

Has anyone checked out the Hornady Concentricity Gauge, they claim that if the Runout is out of tolerance you can correct it with this gauge?

Thanks VV I have been looking at the effects of annealing if it helps or not and was glad to see you had been doing that, how do you control the heat as from what I have read it is real easy to overheat and ruin the Brass, can you provide a little info on how to do the annealing?

Its not that I want to do all of these things unless they can make a big difference or enough to justify doing. Thanks for the response on the questions lot of good info. cc

[Hawks Feather]

Have any of you used the RCBS Precision Mic Gauge?  Yep, and not overly impressed by it.  I have the Stony Point (now bought out by Hornady) tool that can be used for seating depth and also measurements to see how much your brass has expanded.  Prior to getting the tool I would sometimes take the deprime/expander ball off and just run the brass into the die.  You can adjust your die high and then slowly take it down.  If you have one that is tight and start checking after each adjustment of the die being lowered you can get to where it will just slightly set back (bump) the shoulder.  When you get there you will need to put the expander ball back on to open up the neck so that you can seat the bullet.  The idea of setting a die so that it just touches the shell holder is a good way to overwork your brass.

Has anyone checked out the Hornady Concentricity Gauge, they claim that if the Runout is out of tolerance you can correct it with this gauge? I have not used it, but have seen one that looks similar.  Difference was that it was several hundred dollars rather than just one hundred dollars.       One thing that seems to help is seating the bullet, lowering the ram, make a 180 degree turn of the brass, and run it up again.  It sounds rather weird since it would seem that if the first ram put a cant one way in the bullet that just turning it would just reverse the cant of the bullet.  Checking it with my concentricity gauge has shown me that this is not the case.  Not saying that it will be perfect, but better than the first seat.

Jerry

[Carolina Coyote]

Thanks Jerry, I have one of the Hornady tools and did not know you could measure the shoulder bump with it , only seating depth of the bullet. I do the 180 when seating the bullets but would like to know if they are concentric, Would you recommend the Hornady Gauge or not? What I am doing is reviewing all the steps that I am doing in the reloading to try and get a more consistence load and have been doing a lot of research to see if I need to do more or less and was surprised at how much difference they is in weight of Brass, Bullets, and Primers, I can see it might make a difference in Bench Rest but may not be necessary for Hunting Rifles, I guess I am looking for a happy medium to do what really makes a difference. I will be going down to Georgia today for a few days and I have some loads made up to try out some different powder also incorporated some of the Weight of Brass, bullets, and primers to see if I can tell any difference. Thanks for your support. CC

[Hawks Feather]

CC,

Have fun with your load development.  When you find a powder, bullet, etc. that works pretty good start working on bullet seating depth.  That seems to be one of the things that makes a big difference in accuracy.  Some like a little jump while others want contact with the lands.  A nice thing about reloading is that you can change all of the above.

There is a different head that goes on for reading shoulders or you can just get the single unit  http://www.sinclairintl.com/product/5574/Case-Gauges-Headspace-Tools  

As for the concentricity units   http://www.sinclairintl.com/prod_detail_list/Concentricity-Gauges   in addition to the NECO, I have one of the Sinclair.  I had an RCBS, but gave it to a friend who was getting started.  It (RCBS) works, but I don't like it as well at the NECO or Sinclair.  Like I said, I have not tried the new Hornady unit.  You might call Sinclair 1-800-717-8211  and ask for Bob Blaine.  I have known Bob for many years and he knows what he is doing.  Ask Bob for a comparison of the concentricity gauges and he will give you a good review.  You don't need to buy it right then, just tell him you want information on them.

On a side note, Sinclair was bought by Brownells and will be moving the operations to Iowa at the end of this month.      I really HATE to have this happen because right now they are a 45 minute drive from my house and I will miss going over to pick up a few items, look at what is new, and talk.  Sinclair would be a good place for a shooter to work.  If you are working with products (not packing boxes) they expect you to shoot and give you paid time to do it.  That would be such a terrible thing to have happen.  So, for anyone in Iowa, you are going to have a new place to visit for toys.  

Jerry

[vvarmitr]

If you're loading for the 243WSSM for one thing there is only Winchester brass.
Federal had some ear marked brass, but aren't to sure it wasn't made by Winchester.

Annealing will be a big help w/ the heavy brass of the WSSM case. Annealing ain't that hard. Good Lord, I can do it. 

Shoulder bumping, the way I was taught, is basically neck sizing w/ a full length sizing die.  It is suppose to be more accurate as the full length die centers the case better.
Now if you're having trouble w/ your brass chambering after it is full length sized then you don't want to shoulder bump, but over cam.  To over cam you set your die for full length sizing then screw your die a ¹/₁₆ in more. Size a case & see if it chambers okay. If not do another ¹/₁₆ turn & try again.  You shouldn't have to do more than a ¹/₄ turn.

[msmith]

I reload for economy mostly and for accuracy second and only reload for 45ACP, 454, 223, 270, and 30-30, Therefore I use mostly Lee stuff. I do, however, have a Dillon 550 for 45ACP.

I sort brass by manufacture and lot only and don't sort at all for 45ACP. I don't trim handgun cases ever. I use either Dillon or Hornady spray lube.

Like VV, I set my RCBS scale with RCBS check weights and about every 10 rounds I recheck the scale.

My loads are accurate enough, with my AR shooting 1.5-2" at 200 yds, and my 270 and 30-30 shooting 1.5" or less at 100 yds.

Press: Lee Challenger (Thought about getting a Rock Chucker, but this one keeps doing well and is paid for)

Powder thrower: Lee

Scale: RCBS (not sure of model, but it is the cheaper one) Hate the Lee

Dies: Lee and RCBS (I also really like the Lee factory crimp die for handgun rounds)

Lube: Hornady

Bullets: Hornady

Primers: Mostly CCI